Bear Mountain Bridge Motel, N.Y., AT NOBO mile 1399.7, Friday May 16, 2014 — Everybody complains about Pennsylvania. The reason may be that the worst of the PA rocks occur in the final 2 1/2 days in the state and the resulting misery leaves a lasting impression.
What almost nobody mentions is that NJ and NY are substantially different, but in many ways offer even more challenging hiking.
The NJ/NY rocks grow progressively larger and the talus piles require more and hand-over-hand up-climbing as the trail progresses. Trekking poles get stowed. It’s grunt work just to make headway.
The corollary to these vertical ups is steep, jarring down-hills that eat knees and quads – not to mention the back pockets of your hiking pants – for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Add a bit of rain to this recipe of slick rock and left over leaf litter and down you go – sometimes more than once.
So it was yesterday. Three days worth of hard landings lit up the damaged nerves in my right foot for the first time since this hike began.
Early readers of this blog will recall my concerns that an old, but severe injury to my right ankle and foot might make this hike hell on earth. Until the past day or so I’ve experienced no issues thanks to special orthotics and targeted physical conditioning.
Now we’re dealing with phantom signals that suggest bone on bone pain. The pain is real, but the fact is not. This is a purely neurological issue so Ibuprofen doesn’t help. The best Rx is Rest until the damaged nerves calm.
Swayed’s knees and feet were barking too, so after a tasty lunch in the 3-star Bear Mountain Inn, we called a 10-mile NERO for yesterday and a zero today. We’re back at it in the morning.
The good news is that the Bus rolled into the motel around mid-morning, so the Gang of Three is back in business!
A couple of notes: Yesterday we hiked over Bear Mountain featuring some of the most exquisite rock steps, retaining walls and trail engineering I’ve ever seen. I texted Bus (the engineer) to be sure and void his bladder before hiking this part of the trail for fear that he’d wet his pants. It’s that good!
When we were on Bear Mountain it was pouring rain, so unfortunately no pics. We did say a final goodbye to Maglev who we encountered in the Perkins Memorial Tower on the summit.
Our motel is vintage 1920, featuring only six units. Its market is primarily hikers and people visiting nearby West Point.
There’s another similar “hostel” motel just outside Fontana Village, Tenn called the Hike Inn. The economic model is similar in both cases, as is the vintage charm. The owners are all wonderful folks.
My foot is feeling much better after 24 hours. I’ll be ready to rock and roll in the morning.
Ok, wow, sounds like quite the rock challenge. Will start now getting my mind in “rock mode” for next year ! Want to finish PA and get into NJ.
Glad you guys are recovering. Say “Hi” to the guys for me. Glad the threesome is together. Hope the rain clears for you. On a side note, we got hit here in Rochelle with a snow storm…really…it’s the middle of May!! Covered every thing! By Wed it’s supposed to be in the 80’s. Ok Mother Nature…we wave the white flag and give up!!!!
Why shovel snow when you can be out here? The guys miss you too!
Believe me, my body is here but my mind is back out on the trail. You guys clear some of the rocks out of the way for me as long as you’re going that way. I’d appreciate it 🙂
We’ll carry out all the ones that fit in our packs 😉
I think I know you well enough that your statement means that the rocks are REALLY BIG !!!
Let’s say that they are to be respected.
Jim — I’ve really been enjoying your postings as I’ve been getting ready for my own section hike. I’m off to Springer Mountain tomorrow to start the AT Sunday morning. I’m going 70 miles to Dick’s Creek Gap. So I’ll miss your postings for over a week in an effort to save iPhone battery life for calls home to Suzie.
Continue to have fun. I’ll be thinking about you up in NY and New England and will catch up on your excellent postings when I get back.
Good luck on your hike. I camped at the Cheese Factory the night before Dick’s Creek. Note there’s no cell service at the gap. You have to call from the shelter a couple of miles before.
I hope your ankle continues to heal.
Bear Mountain is an area some of my cousins spoke of visiting from their home near NYC.
Saturday, Melanie and I are hiking in the Port Louisa National Wildlife Refuge along the MS River.
https://www.google.com/maps/@41.21794,-91.112581,4882m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en
There will not be any up and down or BIG ROCKS like you are doing. It will be a new place for us. We are hoping to see some migratory birds. We are in the center of the MS flyway. This is the busy time for going north. The weather should be sunny and in the 60s.
Good hiking to you… Jim
The area in which you’ll be looks interesting. Some of the NJ wetlands we saw are artificial — attempts to relo the eastern flyway away from major metro areas.