A timeless spirit

Dedicated to Christine Julia (CJ) Hobbs

“You’re now free mama. Go build that fire so I can come find you in the night.”

This poignant prayer was offered by a former PATC ridgerunner as she posted her mother’s obituary on Facebook.  Her mother was a former park ranger who instilled in her daughter a lifetime of love, respect and stewardship for the outdoors and the Appalachian Trail.

My hope is that her mother’s spirit finds its way to every campfire, everywhere, and spreads peace, love and joy in the cast of its flickering glow.  May its sparks be our forgiven sins sailing away into the velvet beyond.

Campfires have a mythical place in the American psyche.  The romance of cowboy’s chuckwagon fire and the ambiance of an American Indian pow wow fire have served as literary and cinematic window dressing for generations. Norman Rockwell’s “The Scoutmaster” inspired more than one boomer to outdoor leadership.

The Scoutmaster” Norman RockwellMore recently, campfires have been recognized as a form of therapy.  According to Axios, “A growing number of therapists and nonprofits are tapping into the therapeutic powers for fire to help veterans, recovering addicts and at-risk teens.” 

“The Scoutmaster” Norman Rockwell

Watching flames dance and sparks fly can be soothing and even mesmerizing as you let reality slip into cruise control and you tune to a better channel.  Sitting fireside reportedly can lower blood pressure and boost relaxation.  It can also improve your sleep. No doubt fire has served that purpose since the beginning of human history.

One of my “happy places,” as a PATC volunteer, is parking my butt in a chair near the fire at the Indian Run maintenance hut or gathering around the fire at Hoodlum’s September trail maintenance workshop. 

Indian Run Maintenance Hut Shenandoah National Park

Indian Run Maintenance Hut Shenandoah National Park

I love being with like-minded people, imagining the workday’s caterpillar morphing into midnight’s butterfly.   Somehow the stress diminishes as my breathing slows. My muscles slacken as the embers brighten and the stories are told, their imagery unfolding in flaming brush strokes.

Writer Terry Tempest Williams described the magic of the outdoors, “Public lands are public commons, breathing spaces in a country that is increasingly holding its breath.”  She added, “We stand before a giant sequoia and remember the size of our hearts instead of the weight of our egos.” 

The eternal light burns in many forms.  May our dear friend’s mother be free now to build that fire.  May her timeless spirit be a gift that lights the way for all of us.

Sisu

Hurricane Helene Clean-up

Lots going on in this photo. The river jumped the bank and wiped out the connector trail to the Appalachian Trail (AT) in Taylor’s Valley, Va. The homes in the background have been knocked off their foundations and soaked in flood water. They are uninhabitable. The group is hiking to the AT to clear blowdowns. The Virginia Creeper Trail which runs parallel to the AT on lower ground, on an old short line rail bed, has been erased. It was the area’s economic engine. To date congress has not appropriated money to restore public lands in the affected states.

Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area, Damascus, Va. December 3 – 6, 2024 — The tragedy of Hurricane Helene has been well documented by the news media. Entire towns in Western North Carolina and East Tennessee have been obliterated. Even I-40 was largely destroyed near Davenport Gap.

In these situations, human life and recovery take rightful priority over everything else. My colleagues and I recently spent four days working out of Damascus, Virginia, “Trail Town USA” because national bicycle trails and the Appalachian Trail intersect there.

Flood water soaked the center of town in about two feet of water. All around bridges were obliterated. Now, most of the town is open for business and recovery is well underway. Superficial recovery looks fine, but the deeper full recovery may take years.

As FEMA and other agencies have been doing their work, attention has turned to the recovery of public lands which include the AT.

Thousands of large trees were down, blocking the pathway. Root balls ripped the tread to shreds in places at the same time rushing water scoured and erased the pathway from existence. This is an eight-foot vertical drop created by the root ball on the right.

For reference, the 2,200-mile AT is maintained by a collection of 30 volunteer clubs. Each has a section for which it is responsible. My club, the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC) is responsible for 240 miles. In addition, we maintain another 800 miles of hiking trails in the National Capitol Region. We can do that because we live in an urbanized area of 23 million people.

Volunteers gather for the morning safety briefing at the AT visitor center in Damascus.

For the PATC, volunteers are plentiful. Clubs in more rural areas are less fortunate. They don’t have a dense population base from which to draw. Most of the southern clubs fall into the latter category. They’ve called for help. That’s why we were there with volunteers from five of the eight Virginia clubs. We are all committed to preserve and protect the AT. All for one and one for all.

As we marched in on the first day, the damage to the Virginia Creeper Trail below us was obvious. Steel Railroad bridges were bent, twisted and hydraulically washed far from their moorings. It’s going to take $ millions to restore this national treasure.

As noted, thousands of trees were down. Many of these were live 30-inch tulip poplars – big, heavy and full of unusual binds that release stored energy in unpredictable ways. It was not amateur hour.

This is why we clear blowdowns. Imagine yourself as a hiker pawing through mile after mile of this.

As you can see, the first day was cold and snowy. Winter is poking its nose under the blankets. Soon the ground will be frozen rock hard. The weather favored the second day.

We were in an area where the contract arborists had proceeded us. They did some heavy lifting that volunteers with aging, less limber bodies would have struggled. We still had clean up and side trails to clear.

We saw mile after mile of profound damage. War zone was an apt analogy.

Danger persists. This “widow maker” could come down at any time. It would not take much wind or ice to bring it down.

Plenty left for the volunteer sawyers.

None of us had ever seen anything like this. Thank heaven for the rigorous training standards required by the National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service.

It will be a long time before the southern Appalachians return to their factory settings. It was an honor for me and four other PATC members to help, to contribute and to prepare for tread repair next year. I expect we’ll will be sending volunteers for several months soon after spring thaw.

Sisu

The Antidote for our Times

Friends out walking and doing a little trail maintenance in Shenandoah National Park.

The Great Outdoors, November 18, 2024 — The rhythm of time flows differently when boots stir the leaf litter, the trees squeak spooky messages in the wind, the sun splashes through the trees, and campfires crackle.

Long distance hikers love this ambiance. We revert to the circadian rhythms of our ancient ancestors. In the woods, the rigidity of railroad time gives way to the ancient and more traditional rise and fall of the sun. We awaken at dawn and sleep when it gets dark, or as we say, hiker midnight. It’s utilitarian. Returning to our brain’s original factory settings feels healthful and natural. Out there, time keeps itself and you don’t need a watch.

“Into the forest I go to lose myself and find my soul.” John Muir

Recently, Prof. Heather Cox Richardson, who writes the “Letters from an American” on Substack, wrote of the advent of standard time in 1883. This was truly the dawn of the modern age, initiating cascading change that flows to our time. Her letter is here: https://substack.com/home/post/p-151805132?source=queue

For many of us, we live in times that try men’s souls to paraphrase Thomas Paine. The daily grind is brutal. Divided algorithmic public discourse is worse. Alchohol (pan líquido – liquid bread in Panamanian slang) becomes the Roman bread while, sports serve as the circus. Sadly, these are intentional features, not bugs.

Pretending to watch Caitlin Clark play basketball.

The deafening silence of nature quenches the crescendo of civilization. It’s the antidote for our times. As Mikey said in the cereal commercial of decades past, “Try it. You’ll like it.”

Shenandoah was created from land condemned and taken from those who farmed the area. Cultural artifacts remain. Among these are a number of family cemeteries. Many are lovingly maintained by descendants. Some are still active. Of note is the tomb stone of Annie, a five-year-old. In the context of our day, one cannot help but wonder, “What if they had modern vaccines?”

We’ve spent the past several weeks doing woodsy stuff. It’s helped redirect our minds towards peaceful pursuits and away from the death march toward history that surrounds us. To all, we would say, “Come on in. Join us. The water’s fine!”

Sisu

Welcome Autumn

Summer 2014 — Summer is over. It won’t be that long before we’re headed toward days defined by more darkness than light. Our clocks are about to flip back to their factory settings as we search for our thick socks and warm sweaters. Cue the fireplace logs.

The dusty roads of summertime were unfortunately just that. Most of our region is behind on rainfall.

Fortunately tropical storm Debby dropped a bucket or two of rain that recharged the springs in Shenandoah National Park. Former ridgerunner Wendy Willis volunteered for a day of trail work that included repairing the piped spring on my AT section.

The cats are aging. Sophie has arthritic hips and Mustache is exhibiting neurological problems. It’s sad that pets’ lives are so short.

Made it to the ballgame on the Fourth. The park eventually filled up.

Ridgerunners find weird stuff along the trails. Death march to a dance party?

My co-trail maintainer Caroline married her fiance Kevin in Glacier National Park at the end of July. His last name was LaBelle and hers was Egli. Now they’re Caroline and Kevin LaBegli. Well played.

My wrist recovered enough to return to chainsawing after eight months off.

Marie learned how to split firewood at the Hoodlums’ workshop.

The workshop accomplished a lot.

Got to see Kaitlin Clark on the Fever’s last game of the regular season. The Iowa club of Washington showed up in huge numbers. Iowa fans outnumbered Mystics fans by about 2:1. The game set a new WNBA and arena attendance record 20,707. They beat the NBA men!

Sisu

Here we go again.

Shenandoah National Park May 1 – 5 — When it’s spring the wild azaleas bloom. They come first, closely followed by the mountain laurel about three weeks later. After that, it’s all weeds.

We started by joining the Crapper Crew emptying the compost bin on the Calf Mountain Hut privy. Everybody thinks this is task is as attractive as waking up in a French Quarter back alley. In reality it’s more like opening up a bag of potting soil from your local garden store.

On the way to the trail section Caroline and I maintain, I stopped by to check out the fire damage in the north district from last month. The understory is coming back. The canopy is normal. All told, it appears to have been a healthy event for the forest.

“Greetings,” said the bunny. “Do you know the way to Mr. McGregor’s garden?” For a rabbit, this time of year, the world is a giant salad bar. Not need for Peter Rabbit’s coordinates.

Unfortunately, this little bunny was unafraid. Saw it on my way back down the mountain. Sad to say, there are too many hawks and coyotes on the hunt for fearless Lepus sylvaticus to survive for long.

One of the sentinel trees that stand watch over the AT.

Saturday was “Show Your Love” to the park day. Almost 90 people showed up to volunteer on what was a cold and drippy day. Thanks y’all.

Sisu

Busy. Busy. Busy.

Here, there and everywhere, June to July Fourth, July 6, 2023 — We’ll start with the good news/bad news. My dear friend Mary Thurman is now the park manager at Flagg Mountain, Alabama.

This is stellar news for Mary. She’s been searching for “big girl” work for a long time. She’s uniquely qualified and so far, she’s loving it.

Mary’s mission: Bring a long dormant park back to life. Who could be better for that? Her degree from Florida State is finally paying off.

Unfortunately, with Mary’s fortune, we lost our ridgerunner in the Michaux State Forest, Pennsylvania.

Before she hit the road, we visited the Smithsonian’s Udvar-Hazy Center where the large aircraft are on display. Obviously, this is the Space Shuttle Discovery.

We also shared a fire and some beer.  Can’t wait to visit Flagg Mountain after the weather cools off.

Got to welcome four new AT Communities into the fold.  AT communities welcome hikers, support the trail and are a vital source of volunteers.  I kept my speeches mercifully short.  Some of the politicians didn’t.

Along the way things happened. This is the readout on a gas pump. Usually I get gas in Front Royal, VA when I go to the park. It’s often 50 cents less expensive than in the D.C. area.

Guess who left home without his wallet? In addition to not having my drivers license, I didn’t have a credit card. How close was it? My tank holds 15 gallons.

Nice blowdown on Pass Mountain. Tina is my go to swamper because she’s usually available during the week. Pole saws don’t require credentials or PPE. Secret: The car is parked on a fire road less than 100 yards away.

For the first time ever, the PATC was in charge of chainsaw training for a class composed solely of park service employees.

We had several park instructor/trainers working with us and carrying a substantial teaching and evaluating load for the four-day course.

Wayne Limberg is teaching chain sharpening in this photo.

A young fox caught a small black snake for dinner as viewed from the bedroom window.

Our friend Martha Kumar is a professorial scholar of the American presidency. I first met her when I served on the National Security Council staff at the White House. Of course, she was born on the Fourth of July. Our tradition is to attend the Nationals game followed by Martha’s birthday party where we sing Happy Birthday.

Let’s close with the bullseye rash found on my elbow after the chainsaw classes. We spend a lot of time in the woods. It’s doxycycline for two weeks.

Sisu

Walkabout

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Obligatory selfie at the columnar basalt formation.

Shenandoah National Park, May 13, 2023 — About a month ago we planned to take a hike up and over Compton Peak to see the wild azalea and mountain laurel which historically are in full bloom.  It was also a chance to check up on weed growth and talk about the work we’d do over the summer.

As the days counted down, the weather prognosis worsened.  The precip probability in the 10-day forecast climbed from 39 to 58 percent.  Digging deeper the day prior, we learned that the Weather Channel app was predicting less than a half inch accumulation with scattered showers.  Those are excellent odds and conditions so we green-lighted the trek to great success.  So what if we had to wear a rain jacket for 10 minutes.

Maintenance issues constantly crop up whether a waterbar rots, a spring undermines some stone steps, or some knucklehead scratches graffiti on a rock.  The steps will fall to the Hoodlums for repair.

Along the way ya gotta check out the rocks.  We also found a couple of thru hikers enjoying out bench.

Ultimately we found a few flowers.  The azalea were waning and the mountain laurel are just budding out.  The dreaded weeds are ahead of schedule.  It’s going to be an interesting year.

Sisu

Quick Trip

Wild flame azalea

Shenandoah National Park, April 25, 2023 — My new job as club president is keeping my away from the outdoors, more than I would have thought.  In addition, this month’s Hoodlums work trip was rained out.  I needed an outdoor fix.

My excuse:  Yesterday was the park staff’s annual meeting with its partners – park association, trust, concessionaire, and volunteer organizations.  It’s a chance to share, learn and maintain relationships.  After the meeting I drove an hour northward.

A blowdown was calling near the summit on the section Caroline and I maintain.  After the meeting, I dashed up the mountain to clear it.  It was a step-over, so not the highest priority.  We left it during spring cleaning because we didn’t think we had time to cut it with a hand saw.

The weather was ideal, a sunny 47 degrees.  No breeze and no sweat on the hike up to the summit. It’s been awhile since I’ve been solo.  The solitude was priceless.

Got there and it was gone.  Much later I realized our first ridgerunner was on the trail and that he probably removed it.  Meanwhile, the greenbrier and blackberry canes are starting to go nuts.  My clippers clocked overtime.

The inspection established everything was in shipshape.  The spring was flowing well.  No major concerns other than we can anticipate more than our fair share of weeds.

The azalea and mountain laurel are beginning to bloom.  We have a walkabout planned for May 13 to catch peak flowers.  That date seems about right.

As one might expect, the animals are very active.

Coyotes mark their territory with scat.  It’s possible that this is two males arguing over the boundary.  This has happened several times along game trails lower down.  This rock was part of some steps much further up the mountain, so I’m not certain exactly what the story is.  In addition, found some bear scat, cub size, near the trailhead.  That’s the fist bear scat in awhile.

Fresh bear activity.  There’s not much to eat right now – mostly acorns and other nuts under the leaf litter, and insects. The bears use their claws to shred rotting logs to expose the bugs inside.   This is a black birch.  They are soft and rot quickly – good bug habitat.

Blowdowns never end.  This one is a minor obstruction at 12″ in diameter.  It’s going to need a bigger saw.  We’ll get it next work trip which should be May 20.

Sisu

Where Ya Been?

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Ice-downed pine on a Pass Mountain tent pad.

Shenandoah National Park, January and February 2023 —  Ice storm pick up sticks continues.  We’re now on the trails.  The AT in the North District is clear and mostly clear elsewhere.  We’re teaming with the Park Service crews and the Appalachian Conservation Corps (an AmeriCorps group) to get after the approximately 400 miles of blue blaze (side) trails in the park.  Many of them are steep in tight canyons that funnel and speed up the wind.  The Venturi effect dramatically increases wind speed and consequently the number of downed trees and branches.

Don’t hold your breath for this job to get done.  It’s going to be awhile as the video, photos and narrative will illustrate.

My new duties as club president also eat time like an addict finding their next fix.  The PATC is a complex organization and perhaps the largest volunteer service organization in the region.  We have nearly 9,000 members,  maintain most of the hiking trails in the National Capitol Region, operate soon to be 48 rental cabins, 45 camping shelters, several trail centers and the Bears Den Hostel.

So far, it’s a job for a one-armed paper hanger.  You’re going to be busy with planning, reports, relationships, Zoom calls, and the politics associated with the large number of people needed to manage this much complexity.  That doesn’t leave nearly as much time to put your boots in the mud or to write blogs.

Since the December ice storm, the weather has been generally good.  We’ve had individual maintainers and small crews out almost continually, weather dependent.  My batting average is down, but I’m still in the game.

Clearing tree crowns and large branches is like cutting hair and can be tedious work.  Pole saws help, but we don’t have that many of them.  Loppers are the tool of choice.  All you need is time and patience.

Sometimes you find a real honker.  Naturally, it blocked the AT near Thornton Gap.  This one was partially hollow, a condition that presented its own challenges for the sawyer, Wayne Limberg, the AT district manager of the North District.

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Sometimes the pick up sticks land in odd ways.  Some of these were driven into the ground like stakes.  All of them had unusual binds, making it easy to trap the saw.

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My friend Josh Fuchs is a blue blaze district manager in the Central District.  He also owns a moon bounce business.  Ever clever, he invented way of attaching a chainsaw to any pack using spare moon bounce materials.  This makes it much easier to schlepp awkward Old Betsy up the mountain.

It’s not just Old Betsy.  That pack also has a liter of fuel, extra bar oil, Kevlar chainsaw chaps, trauma kit, Silky folding saw. wedges, hatchet. radio, spare clothing, lunch and so much more.  Not sure what it weighs, but it’s a respectable number.

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On one trip, the pin that holds the starter pawls broke and and I might as well been hiking a dumbbell back to the car. I’ll be honest.  I didn’t even know what a pawl was, but thanks to professor YouTube and Amazon Prime, I made the repair the next day.

Had to leave one tree that Dan Hippe clipped with his Mattel-like battery saw.

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Yesterday we organized a crew to work on Compton Peak and Piney Branch.

We taught Caroline to use the pole saw.  No certification or chaps needed.

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The bench we built this fall got some use.

She put her new found knowledge to work on a large tree we found blocking Keyser Run Fire Road on our way to demolish a nasty tangle on Piney Branch.

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Keyser Run fire road was an absolute mud hole.  Type II fun.  It was an all-battery power event!

This beauty was yesterday’s final objective.  Several complex binds.  One large branch with side bind moved 15 inches.  In some cases, knowing how the tree will behave when cut can save life or limb.

The pole saw reach and stand off made many of the cuts much safer.  I’m a believer.

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Lots of debris to clear.

One of the trees was a hard maple and the sap was running.

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End product.

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After all that, we stopped at “lunch rock” before heading home.

Sisu

Hut Repair and a Day Hike

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Shenandoah National Park, October 21 – 22, 2022 — The park is probably getting tired of me.  I’ve been there six of the last nine days. I won’t mention the gas bill.

First the hike.  We were back at it again last Friday when the Gang of Four -1 plus Sara hiked up North Marshall and down Big Devils Stairs on a leaf peeping sojourn.  We were not disappointed.

We ended with our usual pizza stop at the ever excellent Rappahannock Pizza Kitchen – a brick oven pizza emporium in Sperryville. https://www.rappahannockpizzakitchen.com/

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Now for the weekend highlight.  Gravel Spring Hut is a place for hikers to sleep.  As it’s name implies, it’s adjacent to a spring and comes with campsites and a composting privy we’ve chronicled before.

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The hut’s siding is original inch-thick oak carpentered by the CCC nearly 90 years ago.  After all that time, it’s beginning to rot in places due to insect and water damage.  In order to save as much history as possible, only the rotted parts of the boards are replaced with rough sawn lumber matching the same dimensions.

Boards are surgically removed rather than the chaotic demo seen on TV home renovation shows.

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The scrap was left as a treat for campers to burn.  The volume of activity near the huts ensures there isn’t much small firewood around to collect.  Since most campers don’t carry small saws, they get stuck trying to burn larger branches that don’t readily lend themselves to campfire fuel.

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Next, the boards are cut and sized.  Thank heaven for battery-powered tools.  Sara, aka Ridgerunner 2, stopped in to lend a hand. She’s given a lot to the park the past two years and PATC in 2016.  This year she also was a ridgerunner in Northern Virginia and Maryland.  We’re going to miss her.

The boards are carefully placed and screwed into place.  Screws eliminate the risk of further damage pounding nails might cause.

Special caulk is stuffed into the cracks followed by paint.  Russell Riggs, the hut maintainer, played Rembrandt.  The hut is back in service.  We’ll be back again when we have more lumber which is donated by a local saw mill.

Sisu