The long down

June 24, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Ethan Pond Campsite, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,837.0, Friday June 20, 2014 — The diabolical trail gods have a cruel sense of humor.

What goes up must go down. From the summit of Lafayette the descent to Crawford Notch (1,277 ft.) is sure and steady.

Why? Who would want the climb to the 6,288 ft. summit of Mt. Washington to be less interesting? But that’s yet to come. No sense dwelling on it.

Today the look back over the past three days was spectacular. Lincoln, Lafayette and Garfield all in a single panorama.

The journey included a talus field reminiscent of several places in the Rockies. My bootsteps crunching on scree chomped up nostalgic memories of hikes long gone by, my brother Jack and other friends and me out for the kind of adventures 20-somethings enjoy. Those were good days.

We still have four miles of descent before the trail profile starts looking like a hockey stick with the long end up.

We plan to stay at Mispah Hut. If we can’t get work for stay, we’ll pay. There’s a fundraiser at Mt. Washington’s Lake of the Clouds Hut tomorrow, so my preferred destination is out of the question. Maybe we can score some left over caviar and drain the dregs of the Champaign bottles when we pass through?

Apologies to those having difficulty viewing the page. Since the app update, WordPress has had issues, so I can’t say for sure it’s browser compatibility. Unfortunately I am at WordPress’s mercy until I can get out of the woods and lay my hands on a real computer. 🙁

Willey’s store at the bottom of Webster Cliffs.

Reverse angle two hours later.

First view of Mt. Washington.

Over the top

June 24, 2014June 24, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Madison Hut, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,858.1, Sunday June 22, 2014 — I hate rocks, but we’ll come back to that.

The cusp of the morning in tent city found me sipping coffee with a Dane who is working for IBM in Freeport, ME. Our conversation ranged from corporate leadership techniques to camping gear.

I soon scarfed some free leftover oatmeal, a thru hiker privilege, at Mizpah Hut before setting course for Lake of the Clouds Hut nestled upon Mt. Washington’s ample shoulders.

Bright sun lit the easy climb. The trail bed again was scree reminding me of Colorado above treeline, only in the Whites you’re not gasping for breath at 13,000 ft. It’s like a skip in the park I reasoned.

The gentle trail was appreciated. My knees have been taking a pounding on the rocks, especially on the 30 – 40 inch stepdowns. The pack weight really stretches the tendons. The up hills are a nonproblem until after a punishing down hill. Then everything hurts all the time. It goes with the territory, but it’s unpleasant nevertheless.

All that was about to change after Lake of the Clouds. The trail between Clouds and Madison was, in a word, ugly. Lots of rock hopping and big steps. Everything knees hate. I made it to Madison by dinner time, six o’clock, but I don’t know how.

While the trail conditions may have marred the afternoon, the scenery did not disappoint. Dramatic clouds draped the vast horizon with possible afternoon rain in the forecast.

The cog railway even made a special appearance. There’s an old hiker tradition of mooning the train. As a young couple made preparations for the act, they noticed me and reassessed. Damn! It would have made a great photo. They both smiled demurely as we passed.

Tomorrow the White Mountain Hostel in Gorham will pick us up when we reach Pinkham Notch. From there we’ll plot the 21-mile slack pack over the Wildcats. More to come.

Mt. Washington with a tiny bit of snow remaining.

Food!

June 23, 2014June 24, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Galehead Hut, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,825.2, Thursday June 19, 2014 — What’s on the menu?

So most all thru hikers “hate” the Appelachian ‘Money’ Club. Until we hit AMC territory trail shelters and campgrounds are free. Most hostels are in the $20 – $50 range and offer showers, laundry, resupply, phone recharging and access to real food. All that ends in NH.

Like the troll who hid under the bridge, the AMC charges to camp in tents, stay in ordinary shelters and or bunk at the huts. Nothing has a value add that a thru hiker would recognize. But, there is a hidden treasure.

In addition to the work for stay we’re doing for a second night, thru hikers can eat leftovers all day. You can actually eat your way through the Whites. That’s what we’re doing.

This is better than the New Jersey deli per day plan! Today we reached Galehead early , around three o’clock and negotiated work for stay, but also got to clean up a ton of scrumptious leftovers – pulled pork BBQ, lasagna, homemade bread and turkey soup. What a life!

It’s time to note that the climb out of Greenleaf was a no-strainer of less than 45 minutes. No buyer’s remorse here. The pic shows the hut after the weather cleared.

Trail conditions, not the climbing per se, make for slow progress. We met a guest who section hiked the AT beginning in 1956, ending in 1995. His description of changing trail conditions and culture were fascinating. The most profound difference, he said, was the extent of the erosion. It’s like hiking over broken and scrambled Jersey barriers.

So here I am, feeling like a stuffed turkey as I type. I can only hope this fare is equally filling. 🙂

It’s about getting high

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 / jim fetig / 6 Comments

Greenleaf Hut, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,818.6, Wednesday June 18, 2014 — Heretofore miles measured progress. No longer. Now it’s all about elevation. How high is high?

This morning we punched out of the Kinsman Pond shelter, elevation 3,763 ft., passed through Franconia Notch at 1,443 ft. and closed the day’s forward progress atop 5,291 ft. Mt. Lafayette.

Not a bad day’s work for only 12 miles. Now you see why miles aren’t the coin of the realm in the White Mountains. It’s all about up.

Today we also decided to investigate the Appalachian Mountain Club’s hut system. The huts, strategically located throughout the Whites, offer a bunk, breakfast and dinner to paying guests.

Hikers can stop by during the day for leftovers, soup, cake and coffee for a reasonable fee. Each hut allows two thru hikers work for stay meaning free dinner and breakfast in exchange for a small amount of menial work. Not a bad deal considering that paying guests shell out $125 nightly.

We hit Lonesome Lake Hut in time for a late breakfast. The “croo” there suggested we stay at Greenleaf tonight in part because Greenleaf doesn’t see many thru hikers.

There’s a reason why thru hikers pass over Greenleaf. It is 1.1 miles and 1,000 feet below the Lafayette summit! Oh how we’re going to hate ourselves in the morning!!!

The day was long, but the climbing was much easier than yesterday’s hand over hand rock scrambles. The winds were howling up top on the socked in Franconia Ridge Trail as we staggered like wind blown drunks toward Lafayette.

On the descent the prop department displayed its finest work as the sun worked its magic and the landscape underneath transformed to an entirely new reality as dramatic cloud strings wisped along the ridge lines. It was a perfect ending.

One mile an hour!

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Kinsman Pond Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,807.4, Tuesday June 17, 2014 — Expect to make about one mile an hour. Everybody said it. I believed it, sort of, but not really.

Well, it’s true. We hiked 11.5 miles today in eleven hours. Bingo.

If Moosilauke is where Momma Nature set her first line of defense, we’re getting beyond the screen now. We made 1.6 mph until about noon, then an endless rockfall earned our total attention. The poles got stowed and hand over hand climbing ruled the day.

At one point I slipped on a rock and tweaked some tendons in my right foot. In response I doubled down on the vitamin I (ibuprofen) and laced my boot as tightly as possible.

We’re camped at a pond, so the water near shore isn’t cold enough to help decrease the swelling. I’m using my compression sock instead. We’ll have a verdict in the morning.

The Appalachian Mountain Club operates a series of huts throughout the White Mountains. Our goal today was to reach Lonesome Lake hut, 1.9 miles from here. We realized we couldn’t do it before dark, so we called it a day.

Normally the huts cost $125 per night for a bunk, dinner and breakfast. Thru hikers can to work for stay, or as we were told tonight, stay (as AMC members) for a highly reduced rate. We also can buy meals during the day. The huts could be a real bonus if everything works out.

Rain is forecast overnight. Rocky trails are dangerous. We’ll see in the morning.

Cooking dinner at Kinsman Pond

Can’t wait for Monday

June 23, 2014June 25, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Mizpah Hut Campground, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,846.3, Saturday June 21, 2014 — It’s like rush hour out here!

Good weather and low humidity are no friend of the thru hiker. Today the trail was traffic-jammed with weekenders. Tonight there’s almost nowhere to camp. Worse yet, I’m nearly in the shadow of Mt. Washington, the hiker magnet of the Whites.

Never thought these words would ever cross my lips , “Can’t wait for Monday!” That’s when the weekenders go away and the trail is ours alone for a few blessed days.

We took a bypass trail to Willey’s Store in Crawford Notch. There we had breakfast washed down with an ice cream sundae. We also stocked up on some protein bars and a chunk of fudge. Gotta have high octane energy when you need it.

The climb out of Crawford was strenuous, but not as challenging as it might have been compared to others we’ve done. Still, I averaged just under one MPH thanks to several hand-over-hand chunks of trail.

The view from the Webster Cliffs was, well check it out for yourself. The pics can do the talking.

Mizpah Hut was fully booked and the thru hiker work for stays taken. Consequently I’m in my tent in the adjoining campground. Swayed scored a work for stay.

I actually like the privacy and flexibility to curl up prior to hut lights out at ten. I’m lucky. Not many huts have nearby campgrounds.

One dismal discovery. The shock chords in my tent poles broke. That retards quick set up in the rain. 🙁

Tomorrow’s itinerary is up and over Mt. Washington to Madison Hut with clear weather and big views in the forecast.

Apologies. Due to WIFI issues. This blog was posted out of sequence.

Wrong Turn

June 17, 2014June 17, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Hikers Welcome Hostel, Glencliff, NH, Monday June 16, 2014 — Today was a special gift. I can only hope it is the first of many.

If only every day could be like today. A group of hikers slack packed this morning. I signed up for the later group just so I could slurp more coffee ;-).

We started at Kinsman Notch around 9:30 am looking straight up at a chunk of trail that followed a waterfall to its source.

Let’s cut to the chase with the good news. The trail was well designed and maintained with rebar hand rails where needed and plenty of steps to eliminate the threat from slick rock.

Though not a place for someone with vertigo or a rank rookie, this is the safest stretch of trail I’ve seen in awhile. I still would NOT want come down it in the rain under any circumstances.

The experience was exhilarating. The summit reminded me a bit of Pikes Peak, especially the crowds. Since the south side is a walk up, that’s to be expected.

Tomorrow we launch northward from Kinsman Notch hoping for twelve miles. We’re told our planning number should decrease from two miles an hour to one.

Now for the wrong turn. We missed the AT. It seems someone stole the sign. We ended up on the Hurricane Trail which added six empty miles to the day’s outing.

I’m not feeling bad. Nectar, a successful SOBO last year and Spider Man missed it too. I’m told it’s almost a right of passage around here. 🙁

Mt. Washington in the center.

Now the game begins

June 16, 2014June 16, 2014 / jim fetig / 4 Comments

Hikers Welcome Hostel, Glencliff, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,786.6, Sunday June 15, 2014 — The dull gray morning mist finally dissolved as the sun stripped away the fog by late afternoon.

The joy of this metamorphosis overwhelmed my soul as I stumbled down the lower shoulder of the mountain on my way to the Hikers Welcome hostel.

Dear sun, It’s been awhile. Thought you might have been a goner. Glad you’re still with us.

Still, the clouds swirled to frame spectacular scenery from the summit of Mt. Cube. Otherwise, there’s just dull green.

Tomorrow this hike gets really real, if it can be put that way. Moosilauke is the first territorial defense the White Mountains mount against intruders from the south. Mordor lies somewhere beyond.

The south side of the mountain is unspectacular. The north side is a hand-over-hand rock scramble up a waterfall. Terrible? Nope. We’re gonna slack pack the whole ten miles and 4,800 ft. That means a light load and a whole lot more agility than normal.

We’ll also reverse course hiking from north to south meaning we get to climb the gawd awful rocks rather than descend. Up is always easier and less hazardous, believe me.

Best of all, the weather forecast is severe clear. (Sunny for Nonaviators.)

Hikers Welcome is a pretty basic facility staffed by some very helpful and friendly folks including a young woman trail named Nectar who I met on my third day hiking in Shenandoah Park, and again in the Smokies. She hails from New Mexico, so imagine my surprise finding her here.

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s adventure. Same time. Same station.

Not a stream. This is the trail!

Free Ice cream!

June 15, 2014June 15, 2014 / jim fetig / 1 Comment

Hexacuba Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,771.8, Saturday June 14, 2014 — Hexa who? what? Simple.

The Hexacuba Shelter is a hexagonal shaped shelter located on Mt. Cube. That’s the story.

This shelter features told to me years ago by Bob Schwarz and Bert Porter told me about hiking in the White Mountains. The place is unique, and it’s special to be here.

The day started with a treat. Bill Ackerly, who lives trailside, has been befriending passing hikers for decades. Like the cookie lady, Bill has an affinity for the dirty, tired itinerants drifting past his door.

The lucky ones are invited to a game of croquet. Warning: Bill is good and has home court advantage.

Tomorrow it’s a short hike to a small hostel. The following day the serious challenges begin starting with 4,802 ft. Mt. Moosilauke. Not a hike. It’s a climb.

The genius trail designers have been helping us practice. The photo is Warren testing the rebar ladder.

Note: I’ve refrained from scatalogical and privy humor so far. The privy at Trapper John left no choice. .

Aquatic Event

June 13, 2014June 15, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Trapper John Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1759.7, Friday June 13, 2014 — “Stroke. Stroke. Stroke.” I could hear the coxswain in my head calling the cadence as I slopped my way through the second half of the day.

Larry dropped us off at the trailhead at precisely 8:30 am. and we started our climb out of Hanover. The first half of the day was pleasantly cool and dry. The other half was the opposite.

Just past noon the sky opened up, and as one would expect, the trail became a water course. I landed on my backside four times in the mud. The hiking was head down and pump it out. Stroke. Stroke. Stroke.

One pleasant surprise. The mountain on which this shelter is built is shaped in the trail guide like a witch’s hat. That usually means talus or ugly rock slides. There’s even a warning in the guide suggesting precipitous terrain in the area.

Well Friday the thirteenth must be a lucky day. Not only did the rain stop, the whole mountain was dirt! Whoopee.

For some time, we’ve been walking past the infrastructure used to harvest Maple sap from which syrup is made. Thought you’d like to see what that’s all about.

Trapper John was a real person, a doctor from Maine after whom the character in “MASH” was named. He was a prominent member of the Dartmouth Outing Club. The fireplace in front of the shelter is from a cabin formerly located there.