The Antidote for our Times

Friends out walking and doing a little trail maintenance in Shenandoah National Park.

The Great Outdoors, November 18, 2024 — The rhythm of time flows differently when boots stir the leaf litter, the trees squeak spooky messages in the wind, the sun splashes through the trees, and campfires crackle.

Long distance hikers love this ambiance. We revert to the circadian rhythms of our ancient ancestors. In the woods, the rigidity of railroad time gives way to the ancient and more traditional rise and fall of the sun. We awaken at dawn and sleep when it gets dark, or as we say, hiker midnight. It’s utilitarian. Returning to our brain’s original factory settings feels healthful and natural. Out there, time keeps itself and you don’t need a watch.

“Into the forest I go to lose myself and find my soul.” John Muir

Recently, Prof. Heather Cox Richardson, who writes the “Letters from an American” on Substack, wrote of the advent of standard time in 1883. This was truly the dawn of the modern age, initiating cascading change that flows to our time. Her letter is here: https://substack.com/home/post/p-151805132?source=queue

For many of us, we live in times that try men’s souls to paraphrase Thomas Paine. The daily grind is brutal. Divided algorithmic public discourse is worse. Alchohol (pan líquido – liquid bread in Panamanian slang) becomes the Roman bread while, sports serve as the circus. Sadly, these are intentional features, not bugs.

Pretending to watch Caitlin Clark play basketball.

The deafening silence of nature quenches the crescendo of civilization. It’s the antidote for our times. As Mikey said in the cereal commercial of decades past, “Try it. You’ll like it.”

Shenandoah was created from land condemned and taken from those who farmed the area. Cultural artifacts remain. Among these are a number of family cemeteries. Many are lovingly maintained by descendants. Some are still active. Of note is the tomb stone of Annie, a five-year-old. In the context of our day, one cannot help but wonder, “What if they had modern vaccines?”

We’ve spent the past several weeks doing woodsy stuff. It’s helped redirect our minds towards peaceful pursuits and away from the death march toward history that surrounds us. To all, we would say, “Come on in. Join us. The water’s fine!”

Sisu

Welcome Autumn

Summer 2014 — Summer is over. It won’t be that long before we’re headed toward days defined by more darkness than light. Our clocks are about to flip back to their factory settings as we search for our thick socks and warm sweaters. Cue the fireplace logs.

The dusty roads of summertime were unfortunately just that. Most of our region is behind on rainfall.

Fortunately tropical storm Debby dropped a bucket or two of rain that recharged the springs in Shenandoah National Park. Former ridgerunner Wendy Willis volunteered for a day of trail work that included repairing the piped spring on my AT section.

The cats are aging. Sophie has arthritic hips and Mustache is exhibiting neurological problems. It’s sad that pets’ lives are so short.

Made it to the ballgame on the Fourth. The park eventually filled up.

Ridgerunners find weird stuff along the trails. Death march to a dance party?

My co-trail maintainer Caroline married her fiance Kevin in Glacier National Park at the end of July. His last name was LaBelle and hers was Egli. Now they’re Caroline and Kevin LaBegli. Well played.

My wrist recovered enough to return to chainsawing after eight months off.

Marie learned how to split firewood at the Hoodlums’ workshop.

The workshop accomplished a lot.

Got to see Kaitlin Clark on the Fever’s last game of the regular season. The Iowa club of Washington showed up in huge numbers. Iowa fans outnumbered Mystics fans by about 2:1. The game set a new WNBA and arena attendance record 20,707. They beat the NBA men!

Sisu

The fourth quarter begins

Kensington, MD, April 23, 2024 — It’s common for people to list the age of 100 as the aspirational length of their life. Centenarians are widely celebrated has having achieved greatness in just about every human culture. Why not?

Today the calendar marked seventy five years since my birth. That means three quarters of the aspirational century is now in the books.

If sports were a metaphor for life, today I started playing in the 4th and final quarter of the game. The difference is that the human fourth quarter is literally sudden death overtime. You never quite know when the clock will run out. The only thing you do know is that life can dunk on you at anytime it wants. You won’t be taking the final shot.

The logic works sort of like this. My broken wrist will take 9 months to completely heal, restored to pain-free, full function.

When you’re 18 months old, 9 months is half of your life. That’s a long time. When you’re 38, it’s more or less a blip. However, when you’re 75 and don’t know how much time remains on the clock, the functional deprivation can seem like a disproportionately huge fraction of the time you have remaining.

You’re back to square one. At 75, time matters more than ever.

When I turned 65, I was on my AT thru hike. I posted a birthday blog, the premise of which was that at 65, my utility to the American economy was about the equivalent to a snotty Klenex – useless. No longer was advertising or other marketing targeting me at that age, in spite of the fact that I had more disposable income than ever and was blowing through the Appalachian Trail like a kid in a hurry to catch the school bus. Consequently, I might as well have been dead.

Here’s the post: https://jfetig.com/2014/04/23/mourning-bells-on-madison-avenue/

Things have changed. Seventy-five-year-olds are a valuable demographic. Now, suddenly, folks want to sell me lots of stuff – senior living condos, Depends, prepaid funerals, walk-in Jacuzzi tubs, hearing aids, power chairs, retirement annuities, life insurance and Medicare supplemental policies and, of course, cures for all those supposed aches and pains.

Really?

To be honest, decrepitude is evermore visible – except through a gauzy lens. The aging body is protesting from time to time. But, I can still keep time with the fifty-somethings. (Nobody says ever 70 -something.) I’m slightly slower up the mountain on occasion, but I’m always on the summit, lugging my chainsaw, when it counts.

April 23 is a birthday shared with Shakespeare, Shirley Temple, Prince Louis of Wales, William Penn, former U.S. president James Buchanan, and others.

I wish I could write like Shakespeare…

Sisu

Busted!

When you break your wrist, you’re stuck mostly with calisthenics.

Kensington, MD, Spring 2024 — Being president of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club is a full-time job. It doesn’t leave time for extra curricular activities including this blog.

As winter tightened its grip, so did my volunteer gig. From a raft of regulatory compliance issues to a key staffer with an unfortunate cancer diagnosis, slogging through the so called dormant season has had all the joy of chomping into a tepid corn dog at the Iowa state fair.

The stale air inside was smothering me. Much like a pup with a full bladder, I wanted out.

Then I broke my wrist. How’d that happen?

It was a leaden day in mid-January with light snow on tap.

A group of my friends organized a trip to crosscut several blowdowns on hiking trails in a federally designated wilderness area near the eastern boundary of Shenandoah National Park. Count me in? Hell yes!

Hell yes! That is until I was literally thigh deep “in” the Thornton River slipping on snot rocks. As I unsuccessfully Attempted to stiff arm a chilling dunk, I smashed my right radius at the distal head. Then I slipped on another snot rock cracking my knee and jamming my wrist again. Ouch!!!

It felt like a polar bear swim in Chicago’s Lake Michigan. There I was … soaking wet, scrambling up the river bank while assessing the growing, throbbing ache in my right wrist. It was about a nano second before it was absolutely certain that I needed to get the hell out of there before I morphed into a lime popcicle and became a carry-out casaulty.

Working my way across the river on a fallen tulip poplar. The going was good on this end of the trip.

Knowing three water crossings were part of the day, a full change of clothes was ridding on my back, nestled next to my store-bought Italian sub and water jug.

Changing clingy wet clothes one-handed was a contortionist’s circus trick. Once dry, and a little safer from hypothermia, more than a mile separated me from my Subaru Forester which was parked along an access road. Fortunately the crew was full of folks with advanced first aid credentials. We had enough splints and ace wraps to equip an ER.

I immediately thought the wrist might be broken, but chose not to splint it so I could better balance on my hike out. We wrapped it tightly with an ace wrap to retard the rapid swelling and everyone hung around while I waded, avoiding the slippery stepping stones, to recross the river.

Patiently waiting in the Page County Hospital, (Luray, Virginia) ER for the diagnosis post X-rays. Doesn’t look that bad. The ace wraps really kept the swelling in check.

The movie “Barbie” was inspirational in choosing the color of my cast.

I have been a woman’s basketball fan (WBB) for decades.

Squeezing medical putty … over and over and over and over.

The swelling made it too painful to type, even after the cast was off. The rest of the winter has been limited one-armed weight lifting, squeezing putty to rebuild forearm muscles and coaching the neighborhood trail crew to fix some muddy spots on the Silver Creek pathway.

Prognosis: Full recovery. Late summer.

Susu

Long Time. No see.

The Tin Man.

Shenandoah National Park, Summer and Fall 2023 — Time flies when you’re having fun, right?  Somehow time got away.  All summer and fall we’ve been running at warp speed doing the stuff we love to do.

Trail work is fairly predictable.  We saw, chop, weed whack, dig, and move rocks.  Every so often we work on a shelter or empty a privy compost bin.  We also schlepp tools up mountains. That’s what the past few months have been.

We were painting the rusting roof on the Calf Mountain Hut when Henry Horn grabbed a paper towel to mop the sweat from his brow. Little did he know that towel’s astonishing convenience was a trap. Nothing is ever that easy. 

The towel had been used to wipe paint spillage from the handle of a brush.  The instant Henry touched paper to face, he knew he was ready for his close up in the remake of “The Wizard of Oz.”

The  silver colored, oil-based, rubberized paint we use on the corrugated tin shelter roofs is messy.  It sticks around like a well-crafted conspiracy theory.

Fortunately, Henry’s wife was handy and mopped his face with turpentine until it was “almost” devoid of paint.

The hut was but one of many adventures.

We rebuilt a ton of trail. Here is a log hauled by Julie and Nicole. It was used for a step on the park’s Overall Run trail.

We were in designated federal wilderness, so all the logs were cut with handsaws. They weren’t small.

Finished work. About three fourths of those rocks are buried in the ground. Like in your car mirrors, objects in this picture are larger than they appear to be.

Checking one of the falls on Overall Run. Surprised it was still flowing. The region was 10 inches behind on rainfall for the year when this was taken. We’ve since had about three inches of rain.

Cleared a white pine that the wind blew over.

Hauled some firewood for the September workshop.

I love helping to split the wood for the workshop community fire.

Workshop class on invasive species taught by a park biologist. When he was done, we realized we were surrounded by several invasive species.

My brother Jack visited from Colorado and helped empty the Byrd’s Nest 3 compost bin. That’s the kind of job you give your brother to show your love, and signal the virtue of your volunteer efforts. We painted the privy afterwards.

PATC open house at Bears Den.

Our best recruiting tool is the crosscut demo.

Future trainers being qualified to train and certify our new Certified Maintainer course. The course is built around the SET principle. Structures must be Sustainable, meaning they will last a long time; Effective, meaning they do their intended job; and Transversable, meaning they are easy on hikers. This is an example of a rolling grade dip (a drain that shunts off water).

Rolling grade dips are now the preferred way to remove water from the tread, thus preventing erosion. If built properly, ideally a hiker will barely notice them.

More step building, this time on the Compton Peak viewpoint trail.

Taken from Skyline Dr. November 18 at eight o’clock in the morning facing east. It’s hard to beat the zen of a moment like this.

Sisu

-30-

July is Dirt Month

The lowly rock bar does its job. We later used rocks to lift the boulder for better leverage.

Shenandoah National Park, July 2023 — It’s been a typical July in the Mid-Atlantic region featuring scorching heat, dripping humidity, gads of gnats, and clouds of dust where the daily pop-up T-storms failed to drip. The rain may have missed a spot or two, but enthusiastic Hoodlums came to dig, push and pound, come what may. By the way, the gnats are a feature not a bug. 🙂

HOODLUMS MONTHLY TRIP
Both the Hoodlums’ third-Saturday-of-the-month work trip and crew week pack the calendar. Caroline and I camped at the Indian Run maintenance hut on Saturday night and weed-whacked our AT section on Sunday, hustling for an early start to avoid the heat.

While some folks breakfast at the hut, Caroline, the ridgerunners and I slipped into Front Royal for a bite at the Knotty Pine.

This is a one-meal-a-day, greasy-spoon, stick-to-your-ribs, and clog-your-arteries breakfast. These hole-in-a-wall, mom-and-pop eat shops are where it’s at in every tiny community across our nation. It’s where locals gather and a part of American culture that I love.

Our project was to work on the AT near the spring on Compton Peak. The tread on about 250 yards of the trail had drifted down hill. Our job was to restore the tread to its original location using a technique called side-hilling.

Reminds me of railroad building.

The raindrops didn’t miss the area around the hut Saturday night. The slow, steady patter on my tent fly served as white noise for sound sleeping. That meant hanging my kit out to dry once home. Cleaning and storing equipment is part of the game. Speaking of games, the ballgame was unremarkable other than the hapless Nats won one for a change, but the spectacular shot of the capitol on the drive home reminds me of why I like living here.

NOW FOR CREW WEEK

Crew week runs Sunday – Friday. We reside at the Pinnacles Research Station. It is equipped with ten bunks, a lab area, kitchen, livingroom, shower and laundry. It is surrounded by apron of flat ground for tenting and trees to hang hammocks.

We tend to work side-by-side with members of the park trail crews and various members come and go as available. I had to be home on Tuesday to chair a PATC Executive Committee meeting but rejoined Wednesday bringing Sabine Pelton, 2019’s Ridgerunner One, who was in town all the way from Maine while her husband attended a conference at the University of Maryland.

We did a lot of rock work this year. This happened while I was away. Crew colleague Cindy Ardecki shared her video of this rock’s journey. There is more than one way to move a BFR as you will see.

The previous day we used a different technique while working on the Overall Run trail just above the falls.

Crush and blunt force injuries are possible, so safety is a big deal. The park doesn’t require hard hats, but the club will consider adopting them as standard PPE this fall.

We ran into a young bear on the hike back to our transportation. He was curious but conditioned to having people nearby. He only moved 10 ft. off the trail as we hiked past.

You might ask if we were nervous. Not really. As a rule, bears are shy and fearful of humans except when food is involved. This bear showed no sighs of aggression or being concerned about our presence. Besides, he was realistically overmatched by eight guys equipped with trail tools.

We also repaired steps on Compton Peak leading to the park’s best columnar basalt formation. We built the original steps 10 years ago. They are in a difficult spot in which to build and were in need of attention.

We’re trying a new technique using logs as retaining walls to create steps filled with rubble.

We worked on the Indian Run access road on the final day. Sabine and I also slipped up to the spring on Compton to improve the flow. We also found new artifacts near the CCC trash midden located on the section. I wrote about it last winter. This trip we found a plate shard and part of a terracotta pipe section.

Sisu

Fun Week – Open House, WFA, Hoodlums

PATC HQ, Vienna, Va. May 27, 2023 — The PATC headquarters building hides in plain sight, buried deep, just off the main drag, in the Washington, D.C. suburb of Vienna. 

We decided it would be advantageous to piggyback our open house on the local annual street festival thinking we might attract more people.  The objectives:  raise our profile, sell some stuff and recruit new members.  We also added a members only cookout at the end.

The crosscut salami slice is always a favorite.  Fun for all ages.  The youngest gets the chunk sawed off.

We had multiple displays from the ski touring group, mountain rescue and our standard science fair display used at outreach events.

The early results:  $1,200 in sales, 200 visitors, 15 new members.  That’s in line with our projected performance objectives.

But there’s more…

Wilderness First Aid has to be recertified every two years. https://www.solowfa.com/

Ridgerunner training at High Point State Park, New Jersey.

Of course the third Saturday of the month belongs to the Hoodlums trail crew.

The Hoodlums are like Lake Wobegon.  All the women are strong, the men good looking and everyone is above average.

Of course, it’s weed season. 

The mountain laurel are finally blooming.

American chestnut next to chestnut oak which mimics American chestnut.

Freshly weeded trail.

Before the string trimmer waltzed by.

Ran into Alex Gardner, the Shenandoah ridgerunner.  Always good to get caught working.  

Sisu 

Walkabout

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Obligatory selfie at the columnar basalt formation.

Shenandoah National Park, May 13, 2023 — About a month ago we planned to take a hike up and over Compton Peak to see the wild azalea and mountain laurel which historically are in full bloom.  It was also a chance to check up on weed growth and talk about the work we’d do over the summer.

As the days counted down, the weather prognosis worsened.  The precip probability in the 10-day forecast climbed from 39 to 58 percent.  Digging deeper the day prior, we learned that the Weather Channel app was predicting less than a half inch accumulation with scattered showers.  Those are excellent odds and conditions so we green-lighted the trek to great success.  So what if we had to wear a rain jacket for 10 minutes.

Maintenance issues constantly crop up whether a waterbar rots, a spring undermines some stone steps, or some knucklehead scratches graffiti on a rock.  The steps will fall to the Hoodlums for repair.

Along the way ya gotta check out the rocks.  We also found a couple of thru hikers enjoying out bench.

Ultimately we found a few flowers.  The azalea were waning and the mountain laurel are just budding out.  The dreaded weeds are ahead of schedule.  It’s going to be an interesting year.

Sisu

Gordon Lightfoot

On parade at Fort Benning

May 3, 2023 — The passing of Gordon Lightfoot prompted a warm memory of his contribution to my sanity one summer, long ago.

During the blistering South Georgia summer of ’69, 236 officer candidates were training to become officers in the United States Army.  One-hundred-four of us survived to be commissioned as second lieutenants in the U.S. Army infantry.

The training at Fort Benning, Ga. was physically rigorous to say the least.  The discipline was strict and iron clad, designed to grind down those who could not take it.

Field Training 1969

In those days, harassment, including being dropped for countless push-ups for petty infractions, was the way discipline was enforced. This technique and others were used to put pressure of the candidates in hopes of weeding out the weak.

All it really did was demonstrate poor leadership technique.  It taught us how not to be a leader, not how to be a leader.

Each morning following a breakfast we were forced to eat in an impossibly short time, we would go to training.  We’d clamber aboard large trailers for field training.  We marched to class on other days.  That’s where Gordon Lightfoot comes in.

As was customary, the classes sang in complex harmony as they marched to their destinations.  Singing as we marched shifted our thoughts and mood to better places.

One song we sang stands out in particular.  As we lock-stepped our way across the post, we choirboyed the adapted lyrics which made sense in the context of where we were and the almost certain prospect of serving in Vietnam.

We sang:

In the early mornin’ rain

With a rifle in my hand

With an aching in my heart

And my pockets full of sand

I’m a long ways from home

And I miss my loved ones so

In the early morning rain

Without a place to go…

Inside page of our class yearbook.

At the time, OCS consisted of six battalions.  We were the 64th company.  The 65th was across the way from us.  That’s a lot of cannon fodder, a fate which was our fear.  For the record, only half of us served in Vietnam and no one died there, a small miracle.

Our 50th and final class reunion in January 2020, not long before the pandemic.  OCS today is a much different and improved experience than it was the summer of 1969.

Sisu

Where Ya Been?

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Ice-downed pine on a Pass Mountain tent pad.

Shenandoah National Park, January and February 2023 —  Ice storm pick up sticks continues.  We’re now on the trails.  The AT in the North District is clear and mostly clear elsewhere.  We’re teaming with the Park Service crews and the Appalachian Conservation Corps (an AmeriCorps group) to get after the approximately 400 miles of blue blaze (side) trails in the park.  Many of them are steep in tight canyons that funnel and speed up the wind.  The Venturi effect dramatically increases wind speed and consequently the number of downed trees and branches.

Don’t hold your breath for this job to get done.  It’s going to be awhile as the video, photos and narrative will illustrate.

My new duties as club president also eat time like an addict finding their next fix.  The PATC is a complex organization and perhaps the largest volunteer service organization in the region.  We have nearly 9,000 members,  maintain most of the hiking trails in the National Capitol Region, operate soon to be 48 rental cabins, 45 camping shelters, several trail centers and the Bears Den Hostel.

So far, it’s a job for a one-armed paper hanger.  You’re going to be busy with planning, reports, relationships, Zoom calls, and the politics associated with the large number of people needed to manage this much complexity.  That doesn’t leave nearly as much time to put your boots in the mud or to write blogs.

Since the December ice storm, the weather has been generally good.  We’ve had individual maintainers and small crews out almost continually, weather dependent.  My batting average is down, but I’m still in the game.

Clearing tree crowns and large branches is like cutting hair and can be tedious work.  Pole saws help, but we don’t have that many of them.  Loppers are the tool of choice.  All you need is time and patience.

Sometimes you find a real honker.  Naturally, it blocked the AT near Thornton Gap.  This one was partially hollow, a condition that presented its own challenges for the sawyer, Wayne Limberg, the AT district manager of the North District.

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Sometimes the pick up sticks land in odd ways.  Some of these were driven into the ground like stakes.  All of them had unusual binds, making it easy to trap the saw.

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My friend Josh Fuchs is a blue blaze district manager in the Central District.  He also owns a moon bounce business.  Ever clever, he invented way of attaching a chainsaw to any pack using spare moon bounce materials.  This makes it much easier to schlepp awkward Old Betsy up the mountain.

It’s not just Old Betsy.  That pack also has a liter of fuel, extra bar oil, Kevlar chainsaw chaps, trauma kit, Silky folding saw. wedges, hatchet. radio, spare clothing, lunch and so much more.  Not sure what it weighs, but it’s a respectable number.

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On one trip, the pin that holds the starter pawls broke and and I might as well been hiking a dumbbell back to the car. I’ll be honest.  I didn’t even know what a pawl was, but thanks to professor YouTube and Amazon Prime, I made the repair the next day.

Had to leave one tree that Dan Hippe clipped with his Mattel-like battery saw.

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Yesterday we organized a crew to work on Compton Peak and Piney Branch.

We taught Caroline to use the pole saw.  No certification or chaps needed.

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The bench we built this fall got some use.

She put her new found knowledge to work on a large tree we found blocking Keyser Run Fire Road on our way to demolish a nasty tangle on Piney Branch.

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Keyser Run fire road was an absolute mud hole.  Type II fun.  It was an all-battery power event!

This beauty was yesterday’s final objective.  Several complex binds.  One large branch with side bind moved 15 inches.  In some cases, knowing how the tree will behave when cut can save life or limb.

The pole saw reach and stand off made many of the cuts much safer.  I’m a believer.

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Lots of debris to clear.

One of the trees was a hard maple and the sap was running.

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End product.

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After all that, we stopped at “lunch rock” before heading home.

Sisu