Kamakazi Trail Day

May 15, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

William Brian Memorial Shelter, N.Y., AT NOBO mile 1389.6, Wednesday May 15, 2014 — It’s official, less than 800 miles to go! Seems like I was just celebrating the completion of the first 800 miles. Miles fly when you’re having fun.

Today was a hard day. Since crossing the New Jersey border the rock scrambling has grown more intense. A fitting trail marker that looks like a Japanese flag turned up in Harriman State Park. I can’t imagine a better fit with the hand-over-hand climbing we’ve been doing.

Tomorrow and Friday it’s going to rain. The rocks are especially slippery when wet. I think the worst of them are behind us, but we’re a bit concerned safety wise. The going will be very slow if today’s terrain is any measure.

Today’s tasty morsels included the “Lemon Squeezer” which is a very narrow rock passage, and some trail side magic, the first I’ve encountered. The cooler had fresh fruit and cookies. The water was extra welcome on what was a hot day.

The deer in Harriman Park seem about as tame as those in Shenandoah. I was almost able to pat a young doe on the rump this afternoon.

Last night we were paid a special visit from a hiking club from Indiana. They arrived long after hiker midnight, headlamps blazing and announcing their presence with hoots and hollers.

These are gray- haired types though it appears they were unaware of AT protocol. At first they seemed to think they were going to pile into the shelter, at least until they realized was full. So, they tented. We asked their shuttle driver, whom we met at a trailhead this morning, to help educate them on how to behave after dark. A little courtesy goes a long way out here.

Highlight Reel

May 14, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Wildcat Shelter, NY, AT NOBO 1370.0, Tuesday May 13, 2014 — We said farewell to the Bus this morning after breakfast. Bus had what hikers call a drop box (CARE Package) to pick up in a nearby town and would not be able to make it to our location by nightfall.

As we reminisced, Bus reminded me of the morning we were awakened by a very bold little humming bird.

I was sleeping, deeply buried under the sandman’s handiwork at about 0515 when a certain sound punched through to alert my subconscious control center.

Imagine the noisiest bumble bee you’ve ever heard – on steroids; without a muffler. It sounded like a B-17 on short final, dicing the air into drumming little sound bites that tumbled into my ear like tiny Energizer Bunnies pounding away.

If I hadn’t already been prone, I would have ducked to get out of the way.

Bus said the little hummer landed briefly on my boot, which was about six inches from my head, then flew away to a nearby crab apple tree which was in bloom. By then, we were all fully awake and alert. The air raid alarm had sounded.

Bus underscored that moments like that are why we’re all out here. Here’s hoping I see Bus again. I have a wedding in Atlanta July 12, meaning I probably won’t be quite finished before then. I may be able to link up and finish with him if that happens.

When we crossed permanently into NY around 11 a.m. this morning, a pointed concern punched my red alert button.

What if the bears in New York could smell the Red Sox cheers on my breath? What would happen then? What would they do?

“This is not good,” I worried! I spent the remainder of the day looking right and left.

But you know, the more I thought about it, the more I realized that they are New York bears, not New York Yankees. I hope I’m okay unless the odd bear is a Yankee fan.

Right after the border we passed the highest point on the AT in NY. You could even see West Point in the Hudson Valley vista.

The rest of the day was a rock scramble that was good practice for New Hampshire and Maine. We closed at an ice cream store where I drank, count ’em, two coconut milkshakes and a vanilla cream soda.

I’ll admit that the last two miles to the shelter were agony. Good night all 🙂

Under the Boardwalk

May 13, 2014 / jim fetig / 4 Comments

St. Thomas Episcopal Church Hostel, Vernon, N.J., AT NOBO mile 1,352.9, Monday May 12, 2014 — New Jersey is famous for its boardwalks “down by the sea,” but it’s the ones in the mud I’m lovin’ at the moment.

This little corner of New Jersey is full of wildlife refuges and associated wetlands. The really good news is that they are accessible to foot traffic.

Hiking the AT is often a journey of discovery and serendipity. Yesterday we discovered Jim Murray’s farm quite by accident. His farm is one of the most soothing places I’ve been on this hike.

Today it was a series of boardwalk highways through wetlands (swamps) most people would never think of investigating. The number of red wing black birds was fascinating. Who knows what we’ll trip upon tomorrow.

We’re at a generous church hostel 2 1/2 miles off the trail. Fortunately a trail angel gifted us a free ride to the tiny village of Vernon. We resupplied at the A&P and pigged out at the pizza place. We’re good to go.

The walk today was cross compartment from west to east as we close our stay in NJ. We’re on a steady descent to the lowest point on the AT – 218 ft. at the Bear Mountain Zoo. After that, it’s all up hill.

Though we were walking over ridges, many of them appeared to be glacial moraines judging by their composition. We also saw our first granite.

The weather is warming rapidly and the vegetation and insect life are responding accordingly. We’re all bouncing our spring gear northward to Hanover, NH soon. Hanover is the gateway to the White and Presidential ranges – real mountains with real weather. Meanwhile shirtsleeves are a novelty.

A bit of heaven

May 12, 2014 / jim fetig / 6 Comments

Jim Murray property, N.J., AT NOBO mile 1,339.4, Sunday May 11, 2014 — Heaven. In New Jersey? You bet.

A former thru hiker has a farm with two friendly mules and a couple of tiny cabins, one of which he has set aside for hikers. There’s a well, outdoor shower and a privy. Zowee! When we saw the set up, we dropped anchor.

Maglev was here for a short time, but his hike ends Tuesday, so he motored on. Bus, Swayed and I moseyed a mile plus I to the nearby town of Unionville, N.Y. for dinner, then trucked back to Murray’s bunkhouse.

As we hike along the NY/NJ border, the trail is changing to rocky tops and soggy bottoms as the two young hikers from Rheinlander, WI foretold. We also passed the NJ veterans memorial. Tomorrow night we’re in a church hostel in Vernon, NY tho we won’t have officially crossed the border.

Meanwhile we’re thanking Mr. Murray and loving every minute of our stay.

Another day, another rock

May 10, 2014May 11, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Rutherford Shelter, N.J., AT NOBO mile 1329.7, Saturday May 10, 2014 — Today was all about nature, human and otherwise.

First, last night Swayed, Bus, Maglev (the nurse) and I were at a shelter with two young women from Rheinlander, Wisconsin. They were. It only a total delight, but a hoot as well. It’s been a long time since I’ve met anyone that genuine.

The girls are on a six week southbound section hike for all the right reasons. Adventure and discovery will punctuate their personal growth. May the wind be at your back ladies.

Today’s hike was rocky enough that we thought we’d taken a detour back into Pennsylvania. The rocks will thin out permanently within the next 100 miles or so. Not going to fret about them.

We discovered where a bear had been making its own blazes. I only wish humans could to that well. We spent two hours this morning chasing the trail due to some poor and unconventional marking techniques.

Later we encountered some tourists near a parking lot. “No, I didn’t see any bears today!” I need a sign to put around my neck to answer that ubiquitous interrogative.

A funny black snake which had a payday crossed the trail. He was pretty slow, being fat in the middle. Once his head was hidden, he stopped trying to get away thinking we could no longer see him.

Also watched some red tailed hawks trying to make their living.

Beaver Dam Rules

May 9, 2014September 2, 2019 / jim fetig / 7 Comments

Brink Road Shelter, N.J., AT NOBO mile 1,314.4 Friday May 9, 2014 — Once upon a time a hard working beaver built a dam and all was good.

It was a strong dam with a very large pond away from people. Each day the beaver greeted the other animals when they came to drink. They were happy that the beaver chose their neighborhood to make his living. Everyone was happy.

Then one day the beaver heard strange noises. Heavy construction equipment was making a lot of noise. He learned from a passing deer that men were building a power line on the next ridge over.

That same day people with picks, McClouds, Pulaskis and white paint began carving a hiking trail on the beaver’s dam and around the edge of the pond.

The Appalachian Trail was being rerouted around the power line construction. This was sad news for the beaver and the other animals in the forest. People, especially smelly hikers would be everywhere. The peace and quiet would be gone forever.

With winter coming on the beaver knew he needed to raise his pond’s water level to make sure he would have room under the ice. So he set out to reinforce his dam and the water rose to the appropriate level.

Sadly, the trail crews didn’t like it when the water level rose and covered the trail they had worked so hard to build. The crews installed a drain to lower the water level. The beaver plugged it and the trail crews unplugged it, and so it went.

In time the beaver decided to draw the line. Be permanently plugged the drain, then he cut down the trees with white blazes, then be blocked the trail itself. That’ll show ’em, he thought … and it did. The trail crews moved the trail up slope and decided to leave the beaver alone.

When the hikers saw what the beaver had done, they cheered. They like it when nature wins.

We stopped short today so Bus could stay with us. Life is good and the beaver story is true.

New Jersey tries harder

May 8, 2014 / jim fetig / 8 Comments

Mohican Outdoor Center, N.J., AT NOBO mile 1,300.4, Thursday May 8, 2014 — Early this morning I passed a sign that said Sunfish Pond was one of the seven natural wonders of New Jersey. I know Cape May could be another of them, but for the life of me I can’t think of any candidates for the other five.

Actually, it’s New Jersey’s unnatural wonders I worry more about – the Meadowlands superfund sites, the urban blight of Elizabeth and Newark, organized crime and state politics as if you could tell the difference. Then there’s Snookie…

New Jersey has more bears per square mile than anywhere else on the trail. We saw three huge piles of bear scat today, but no other indications. We even saw a sizable stash of uneaten acorns. Bet we’ll see a bear before we’re ought of here.

To be fair, most of the day was rainy and foggy. Very little of Sunfish Pond was visible, so maybe I’m missing something. If not, old New Jersey is trying awfully hard to make something out of not much. That was confirmed when we tripped upon the state’s cache of spare hiking rocks. Nice try NJ, but you’re no Pennsylvania.

We’re at the Mohican Center, a former Scout camp operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club. The AMC is derisively know in some circles as the “Appalachian Money Club” for charging excessive fees for the use of its facilities, especially the huts in the New Hampshire mountains.

Tomorrow’s hike is 21 flat, and (we hope), moderately rocky miles to the next shelter. Here tonight is Swayed, Bus, and a male nurse section hiker from North Carolina. He makes the eighth male nurse I’ve met on the trail.

This is probably the last night we’ll see Bus. He’s much slower and can’t consistently do the mileage Swayed and I routinely turn in. He’s a great guy who will be missed.

3.14159 reasons to love Delaware Water Gap

May 8, 2014 / jim fetig / 4 Comments

Delaware Water Gap, Penn., AT NOBO mile 1,289.6, Wednesday May 7, 2014 — If I had been a character on Sesame Street, I would have been the Pie Moocher.

I love pie – pot pie, apple pie, cherry pie, punkin pie – any kind of pie, even the number pi. You can fill my pie hole morning, noon and night.

Well, this threadbare burg has its very own pie bakery. Talk about a hiker vortex. You can walk in, but you can’t walk out.

No sooner did I saunter in than a piece of apple pie a la mode jumped right out and landed right on my table. It was so yummy.

Not to be outdone, the second course consisted of a savory shepherd’s pie. Scrumpilicious!

For desert I tried waddling over to the strudel table but fortunately I couldn’t make it all the way. The button on my waist band was about to pop.

Did I forget to mention the homemade giant size cookies or the cupcakes? Oh mercy!!!

They open at 8 o’clock. A special breakfast awaits, I can tell.

The rest of the week will be much warmer and rainy. My quick trip home and back paralleled the AT. Spring is about a hundred miles south of us at the moment, and should catch up momentarily.

Of course the cats were delighted to see me. 🙂

The dry state

May 6, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Pennsylvania — Perhaps more than its rocks, Pennsylvania is famous for thirsty hikers, especially as summer deepens. Its springs simply dry up.

The past several days presented the opposite problem. Following last week’s rain storms there was more water than the ground could handle. The liquid simply sweat right out of the ground like an endless artesian well.

The trail turned into a series of rivers everywhere we hiked for nearly four days. Since then we’ve seen more mud than water.

Words cannot describe this phenomenon well. Perhaps this short video might help.

Superfund Site

May 5, 2014 / jim fetig / 3 Comments

Leroy A. Smith Shelter, Penn., AT NOBO mile 1,269.4, Sunday May 4, 2014 — Zinc smelter in Palmerton operated from 1898 – 1980. The resulting pollution killed the vegetation on the ridge above town and contaminated the water.

Palmerton is a very hiker-friendly town but notable for having an inordinate number of lawyers, numerous medical facilities of various types and two funeral homes on main street alone. I know the rules about correlation and causation, but I’m just sayin’.

During our short visit we heard talk about cancer clusters. Sadly we saw evidence of obviously neurologically damaged people in town.

BUS (Big Ugly and Slow) is a mining engineer with a degree from the Colorado School of Mines. His observations were fascinating. He noted that the plant is operating albeit with new air scrubbers.

The climb up the Lehigh Gap was the biggest one in a long time, but pro forma after more than 1,200 miles.

I’ll let the pics tell the story.