One mile an hour!

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Kinsman Pond Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,807.4, Tuesday June 17, 2014 — Expect to make about one mile an hour. Everybody said it. I believed it, sort of, but not really.

Well, it’s true. We hiked 11.5 miles today in eleven hours. Bingo.

If Moosilauke is where Momma Nature set her first line of defense, we’re getting beyond the screen now. We made 1.6 mph until about noon, then an endless rockfall earned our total attention. The poles got stowed and hand over hand climbing ruled the day.

At one point I slipped on a rock and tweaked some tendons in my right foot. In response I doubled down on the vitamin I (ibuprofen) and laced my boot as tightly as possible.

We’re camped at a pond, so the water near shore isn’t cold enough to help decrease the swelling. I’m using my compression sock instead. We’ll have a verdict in the morning.

The Appalachian Mountain Club operates a series of huts throughout the White Mountains. Our goal today was to reach Lonesome Lake hut, 1.9 miles from here. We realized we couldn’t do it before dark, so we called it a day.

Normally the huts cost $125 per night for a bunk, dinner and breakfast. Thru hikers can to work for stay, or as we were told tonight, stay (as AMC members) for a highly reduced rate. We also can buy meals during the day. The huts could be a real bonus if everything works out.

Rain is forecast overnight. Rocky trails are dangerous. We’ll see in the morning.

Cooking dinner at Kinsman Pond

Can’t wait for Monday

June 23, 2014June 25, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Mizpah Hut Campground, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,846.3, Saturday June 21, 2014 — It’s like rush hour out here!

Good weather and low humidity are no friend of the thru hiker. Today the trail was traffic-jammed with weekenders. Tonight there’s almost nowhere to camp. Worse yet, I’m nearly in the shadow of Mt. Washington, the hiker magnet of the Whites.

Never thought these words would ever cross my lips , “Can’t wait for Monday!” That’s when the weekenders go away and the trail is ours alone for a few blessed days.

We took a bypass trail to Willey’s Store in Crawford Notch. There we had breakfast washed down with an ice cream sundae. We also stocked up on some protein bars and a chunk of fudge. Gotta have high octane energy when you need it.

The climb out of Crawford was strenuous, but not as challenging as it might have been compared to others we’ve done. Still, I averaged just under one MPH thanks to several hand-over-hand chunks of trail.

The view from the Webster Cliffs was, well check it out for yourself. The pics can do the talking.

Mizpah Hut was fully booked and the thru hiker work for stays taken. Consequently I’m in my tent in the adjoining campground. Swayed scored a work for stay.

I actually like the privacy and flexibility to curl up prior to hut lights out at ten. I’m lucky. Not many huts have nearby campgrounds.

One dismal discovery. The shock chords in my tent poles broke. That retards quick set up in the rain. 🙁

Tomorrow’s itinerary is up and over Mt. Washington to Madison Hut with clear weather and big views in the forecast.

Apologies. Due to WIFI issues. This blog was posted out of sequence.

Wrong Turn

June 17, 2014June 17, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Hikers Welcome Hostel, Glencliff, NH, Monday June 16, 2014 — Today was a special gift. I can only hope it is the first of many.

If only every day could be like today. A group of hikers slack packed this morning. I signed up for the later group just so I could slurp more coffee ;-).

We started at Kinsman Notch around 9:30 am looking straight up at a chunk of trail that followed a waterfall to its source.

Let’s cut to the chase with the good news. The trail was well designed and maintained with rebar hand rails where needed and plenty of steps to eliminate the threat from slick rock.

Though not a place for someone with vertigo or a rank rookie, this is the safest stretch of trail I’ve seen in awhile. I still would NOT want come down it in the rain under any circumstances.

The experience was exhilarating. The summit reminded me a bit of Pikes Peak, especially the crowds. Since the south side is a walk up, that’s to be expected.

Tomorrow we launch northward from Kinsman Notch hoping for twelve miles. We’re told our planning number should decrease from two miles an hour to one.

Now for the wrong turn. We missed the AT. It seems someone stole the sign. We ended up on the Hurricane Trail which added six empty miles to the day’s outing.

I’m not feeling bad. Nectar, a successful SOBO last year and Spider Man missed it too. I’m told it’s almost a right of passage around here. 🙁

Mt. Washington in the center.

Now the game begins

June 16, 2014June 16, 2014 / jim fetig / 4 Comments

Hikers Welcome Hostel, Glencliff, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,786.6, Sunday June 15, 2014 — The dull gray morning mist finally dissolved as the sun stripped away the fog by late afternoon.

The joy of this metamorphosis overwhelmed my soul as I stumbled down the lower shoulder of the mountain on my way to the Hikers Welcome hostel.

Dear sun, It’s been awhile. Thought you might have been a goner. Glad you’re still with us.

Still, the clouds swirled to frame spectacular scenery from the summit of Mt. Cube. Otherwise, there’s just dull green.

Tomorrow this hike gets really real, if it can be put that way. Moosilauke is the first territorial defense the White Mountains mount against intruders from the south. Mordor lies somewhere beyond.

The south side of the mountain is unspectacular. The north side is a hand-over-hand rock scramble up a waterfall. Terrible? Nope. We’re gonna slack pack the whole ten miles and 4,800 ft. That means a light load and a whole lot more agility than normal.

We’ll also reverse course hiking from north to south meaning we get to climb the gawd awful rocks rather than descend. Up is always easier and less hazardous, believe me.

Best of all, the weather forecast is severe clear. (Sunny for Nonaviators.)

Hikers Welcome is a pretty basic facility staffed by some very helpful and friendly folks including a young woman trail named Nectar who I met on my third day hiking in Shenandoah Park, and again in the Smokies. She hails from New Mexico, so imagine my surprise finding her here.

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s adventure. Same time. Same station.

Not a stream. This is the trail!

Free Ice cream!

June 15, 2014June 15, 2014 / jim fetig / 1 Comment

Hexacuba Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,771.8, Saturday June 14, 2014 — Hexa who? what? Simple.

The Hexacuba Shelter is a hexagonal shaped shelter located on Mt. Cube. That’s the story.

This shelter features told to me years ago by Bob Schwarz and Bert Porter told me about hiking in the White Mountains. The place is unique, and it’s special to be here.

The day started with a treat. Bill Ackerly, who lives trailside, has been befriending passing hikers for decades. Like the cookie lady, Bill has an affinity for the dirty, tired itinerants drifting past his door.

The lucky ones are invited to a game of croquet. Warning: Bill is good and has home court advantage.

Tomorrow it’s a short hike to a small hostel. The following day the serious challenges begin starting with 4,802 ft. Mt. Moosilauke. Not a hike. It’s a climb.

The genius trail designers have been helping us practice. The photo is Warren testing the rebar ladder.

Note: I’ve refrained from scatalogical and privy humor so far. The privy at Trapper John left no choice. .

Aquatic Event

June 13, 2014June 15, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Trapper John Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1759.7, Friday June 13, 2014 — “Stroke. Stroke. Stroke.” I could hear the coxswain in my head calling the cadence as I slopped my way through the second half of the day.

Larry dropped us off at the trailhead at precisely 8:30 am. and we started our climb out of Hanover. The first half of the day was pleasantly cool and dry. The other half was the opposite.

Just past noon the sky opened up, and as one would expect, the trail became a water course. I landed on my backside four times in the mud. The hiking was head down and pump it out. Stroke. Stroke. Stroke.

One pleasant surprise. The mountain on which this shelter is built is shaped in the trail guide like a witch’s hat. That usually means talus or ugly rock slides. There’s even a warning in the guide suggesting precipitous terrain in the area.

Well Friday the thirteenth must be a lucky day. Not only did the rain stop, the whole mountain was dirt! Whoopee.

For some time, we’ve been walking past the infrastructure used to harvest Maple sap from which syrup is made. Thought you’d like to see what that’s all about.

Trapper John was a real person, a doctor from Maine after whom the character in “MASH” was named. He was a prominent member of the Dartmouth Outing Club. The fireplace in front of the shelter is from a cabin formerly located there.

Up, up and away

June 13, 2014June 13, 2014 / jim fetig / 4 Comments

The Dumont’s, Grantham, NH, Friday June 13, 2014 — It’s Friday the 13th with rain in the forecast all day. A lucky day and time for some hiking.

Our wonderful stay with my cousin Debbi and her husband Larry must end before we eat them out of house and home! They’ve been so gracious it’s hard to leave. Last night we joked of hiking in a circle just so we could return. Thanks guys. You’re the best!

We used our time for R&R, that is resupply and reconnaissance. The resupply part is obvious. Nothing new.

For our reconnaissance mission, I rented a car again from Enterprise. We drove northward to peek at the trail, view the mountains from the opposite end of the telescope (bottom of the hill) and check out a couple of the hostels.

We also arranged to slack the “Wildcats” while we were in Gorham. All of this will become clear as it unfolds over time, so stay tuned.

Penultimate state.

June 9, 2014June 10, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

High Octane Hiking

June 9, 2014June 9, 2014 / jim fetig / 6 Comments

Winturri Shelter, Vt. AT NOBO mile 1,716.9, Saturday June 7, 2014 — I’ve been eating everything in sight.

Thursday night at Pico Camp, I ate two entrées for dinner plus a couple of chocolate bars. Yesterday, I ate a Reuben sandwich for lunch at noon, a bowl of thick beef stew for late lunch at 1:30 pm. Those two were followed by two more meals, ending with shepherds pie with a pint of Guinness around 7 o’clock.

The breakfast I scarfed down this morning would have embarrassed Paul Bunyan. We’re talking high calorie, high octane hiker fuel here.

I’m burning calories at a huge rate. The constant ups and downs just add to the demand. Without high calorie intake, I’d be out of gas in no time.

I’m attaching photos of various feed bags I’ve observed lately.

Yesterday we ate lunch at the Yellow Deli. This place is like a movie set for the early 1970s. The throw-back decor fit the psychedelic decade like a tight penny. It reminded me of a place in Aspen my wife and I used to frequent in that same decade. The affiliated hostel is noted for its fundamentalist Christian proselytizing.

Today’s hike diverted to the east from the Long Trail at Maine Junction. We could sense the drop in attention to the trail immediately. We plan to be out of Vermont early Monday morning.

Pointless Ups and Downs

June 9, 2014June 9, 2014 / jim fetig / 5 Comments

Happy Hill Shelter, Vt., AT NOBO mile 1,737.3, Sunday June 8, 2014 — The sky is blue. The leaves are brown. The trail goes up. The trail goes down.

I recited this little ditty all winter. It’s still true except that the leaves are now green. Today was a pleasant hike that was all about PUDs – pointless ups and downs.

Trail conditions were the only other remarkable note. The mud in this section has dried up for all intents and purposes. Only residual blood sucking insects remain. They were relentless today, but oceans of DEET kept them at bay.

The uncut weeds are a problem. A study last year proved that the vector for deer ticks, the carriers of Lyme Disease, is trailside vegetation against which hikers brush. They also help spread invasive species in the same motion.

It’s a jungle out there and all if us are concerned that we won’t find all the deer ticks that find us. I just wish the trail overseers would be more diligent about keeping the weeds and other vegetation cut back.

Four miles to Starbucks in the morning. Indeed! I can use the caffeine.

Last night my blog was so boring that I fell asleep while typing.

True story. If it’s reputation holds true, I think NH hiking will eliminate the boredom.