Independence Day

July 5, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Andover, ME, Friday July 4, 2014 — Zero. That’s what I did today.

Actually we had a “tube steak” cookout on the soggy porch of the Pine Ellis Hostel. Among the guests were a half dozen German SOBOs and a Brit. The Americans were a distinct minority. How American is that? I Ioved it.

The town is tiny to say the least. Three cafés and a gas station. Too small for a parade or fireworks. Peace and quiet are the heart of Andover’s brand, and it delivered.

The photo is of Main St. from the town green. It pretty much says it all.

Happy Fourth everyone.

Tomorrow we hike backward (south). More to follow.

Mahoosuc corrected link

July 4, 2014July 4, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/20140702_111739.mp4?_subject_uid=49196259&w=AAB6J9heeiHOUWb01KnvHHGjXp8eCBcfX-BqK1gxjoC34g

Mahoosuc Notch Videos

July 4, 2014 / jim fetig / 1 Comment

Two guys. Same place.

Foggy glasses

July 3, 2014July 3, 2014 / jim fetig / 3 Comments

Speck Pond Shelter, ME, AT NOBO mile 1,914.6, Wednesday July 2, 2014 — Mahoosuc Notch was so cool it fogged my glasses!

In fact, the fog shrouded valley looked far kinder and gentler than it actually was. Long ago glaciers scooped out Mahoosuc Notch from a great block of metamorphic rock. Over time house-size and larger boulders tumbled from the steep canyon walls to the narrow valley floor and formed either the world’s best obstacle to tank traffic or a jungle gym for hikers.

To anyone with moderate rock climbing experience, the great boulder field is a welcome diversion. For others, it could be a bit of a challenge.

With that in mind, the whole shelter awoke hoping for an early start. As we packed up, an ominous rumbling punctuated the atmosphere. No, nobody had lentils for dinner. Thunder has an unmistakable sound all its own at six-thirty in the morning.

Swayed and I were about a quarter mile from the shelter when the pelting rain sent us back under cover, not for fear of rain, but out of respect. We know how dangerous rain-slickened rock can be. Fortunately the sky cleared in 20 minutes and we launched our adventure.

The ice in the crevasses worked like a Roman frigidairium and cooled the air in the boulder field at least 20 degrees. The effort required to navigate the boulders, canyons and tunnels should have generated copious amounts of sweat. Instead I was dry as a bone and cool as a cucumber. The cool temperature was exhilarating. Unfortunately my glasses fogged every time they came in contact with the day’s hot and humid air.

We made it through the boulders in about three hours. That’s far slower than some and a bit ahead of the average time of three and a half hours.

Simply put, I had a blast, even when I had to push my pack through a rock tunnel. I have video when I can post it. Mahoosuc is on the list of places I’d like to revisit in the future. Mark it down.

After Mahoosuc Notch is a gentle little slope (not) called Mahoosuc Arm. Not a nice place. I was ever so happy to be climbing. I can’t imagine descending in good weather or bad. Let’s just describe the Arm as a black diamond ski slope made of hard-hearted stone.

Tomorrow we’ll be at the Pine Ellis Hostel from which we’ll be doing some slack packing and avoiding Hurricane Arthur. Slacking has got to be easier on the knees than what we have been doing.

It’s summertime!

July 3, 2014July 3, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Gentian Pond Shelter, NH, AT NOBO mile 1898.8, Monday June 30, 2014 — It was hot today and sweat became the word of the day. Lots of sweat.

Water was relatively scarce too, especially during the first half of the day. Fortunately there was plenty to be found this afternoon.

The water source for this shelter is a pond. Most of the pond water up here is brown with leaf tannin. It doesn’t affect the taste much, but it does look like strong tea. Consequently some folks don’t like to drink it.

After drawing drinking water, I rinsed out my shirt and cleaned up a bit. I needed it. The alternative is gross.

SOBOs (southbounders) were the theme of the day. We saw eight within 45 minutes. Seems the bubble of SOBOs who jump on the trail right after college graduation is about to reach us. That means extra competition for shelters, hostels and transportation as we go forward.

Tomorrow we finally leave the long shadow of Mt. Washington. In return we get to cross the Maine border and tackle what is reputed to be the toughest mile on the trail. Time will tell. Stay tuned.

Maine! The final exam.

July 3, 2014July 3, 2014 / jim fetig / 6 Comments

Full Goose Shelter, ME, AT NOBO mile 1,908.4, Tuesday July 1, 2014 — This is the beginning of the end. Each mountain top witnessed the ever fading shadow of Mt. Washington shrinking in the haze of my rearview mirror. By day’s end it was gone – history in the books.

What lies ahead is less romance than hard work. The trail in Maine is rough. Everyone at the shelter is complaining about the steep slab rocks on the downhills. They’re slicker than snot when dry. We can’t even contemplate them wet. We’ve all fallen enough that we’re gun shy on wet rock.

Lots of fancy trail structures in evidence today.

Tomorrow is Mahoosuc Notch and arm, reputed to be either the most fun or most challenging couple of miles on the trail. In anticipation, I’m working on my war stories early. My mind is open. Let the end games begin.

Sayin’ Uncle

June 29, 2014July 4, 2014 / jim fetig / 6 Comments

White Mountains Lodge and Hostel, NH — When I arrived on the hostel’s doorstep, I knew I was near the end of my rope. I just didn’t know how close to the end I actually was. Not only were my knees screaming, but I also had a full blown head cold. I also couldn’t stand the taste of food and had not eaten anything significant in 24 hours. In short, I was a mess. I just didn’t realize it.

The first night and morning I consumed only water and cola in preparation for sleeping all day. On the second night I still could only sample my dinner. I theorized that my aversion to food might be the result of having encountered a dirty dish somewhere in the hut system.

In short, I need a space and time for respite and recuperation.

As I’ve noted before, it’s impossible to compare hostels one to another. There are too many independent variables. It is fair to say that this time, I was at the right place when I needed it.

There is a slight comparison. White Mountains Lodge is simIlar to Vermont’s Green Mountain House in so far as each is a converted house with similar amenities and a home style feel. Each host is a wonderful person.

I couldn’t have found a better place. White Mountains is a welcoming and accommodating home away from home. Marni, the owner, is a wonderfully attentive and cheerful host who understands long distance hikers and their unique predicament. She should know. Her son hiked the trail two years ago. She and her assistant Eric helped in every way.

In all it’s taken six days to recover. The trip down to see my friend Katie was also a significant part of that process. Tomorrow we head north again. I’m fit and looking forward to it.

About now I’m sure glad I was willing to say uncle.

The next set of blogs should come in a few days.

Super friend to the rescue.

June 27, 2014June 27, 2014 / jim fetig / 4 Comments

Shankhassick Farm, Durham, NH, Friday June 27, 2014 — The last time I was here, Katie’s house was just built. It was raw and new with the smells of fresh paint and varnish.

Today it’s an eclectically decorated, quiet and comfy retreat from the insanity of the outside world, a place where a body and mind can rest and recover. In a word, it’s “paradise” in New Hampshire!

I needed that. I also needed and appreciated the wonderful friend behind it all.

I’ve known my friend Katie Paine for a long time. I’ve been her client, colleague and collaborator almost from the day we met in New York where we were presenters at a Conference Board meeting. It didn’t take long for our friendship to form after that.

When my iPhone went on the fritz – the battery would hold only a 50 percent charge, then crash. It also turned itself on and off randomly – I needed to buy a replacement. The challenge: the nearest store was three hours away!

Calling all superheroes.

Like the Lone Ranger, it was Katie to the rescue. Cue the music Tonto!

Next think I know, a ride to Katie’s house was miraculously arranged with one of her former employees at a business she formerly owned in Gorham.

My ride had to first stop in Concord, my wife’s home town. Seems Granite State Candy needed an emergency delivery of New Hampshire maple syrup.

Whoa! That’s our favorite candy store in the whole world. What a treat! That did wonders for my morale.

We made it to Katie’s around three o’clock. Since Katie had to finish some conference calls we didn’t complete the phone replacement until after 8 pm.

Following a beautiful dinner, Katie squeezed me into a house full of other guests and I slept like the proverbial rock.

Katie is in the communications metrics business. In fact, it’s legitimate to say she invented it. That said, I don’t know how you measure a friendship like Katie’s. She went above and beyond and truly rescued me from a crisis that threatened to ruin my hike given that my phone not only is my camera, but my communications Swiss Army knife as well.

I can’t ever thank Katie enough. I will return the favor in every way I can whenever possible. Certainly, I owe her dearly.

She truly is a superhero and best of all, a super friend!

THANK YOU KATIE PAINE!!!

Keepin’ on.

June 25, 2014June 26, 2014 / jim fetig / 7 Comments

White Mountain Lodge and Hostel, Shelbourne, NH, Wednesday June 25, 2014 — Success. Motivation and commitment.

It’s a long way. Two thousand one hundred eighty five point three miles. It’s a long time too. Generally six months or more.

“Walksandscrambles” asked about what it takes to maintain one’s mental determination over the course of such a grueling endeavor. It just so happens that I’d been mulling that very same question.

However it’s put – motivation, focus, attitude, determination, fortitude, tenacity, commitment, or plain old sisu – half of the game is 60 percent mental as I remember Yogi putting it.

The first thing every successful thru hiker mentions is how hard the mental component of the trail is.

First, it’s tedious. Being head-down day in and day out takes a tole. Honestly, it can be profoundly boring at times. For the first time in my life I can imagine solitary confinement. The “Virginia blues” is only the beginning of the mental wrestling match for some.

Now that I am deep into this adventure, a more profound appreciation of mental toughness has emerged. In the vernacular, this sucker is hard.

How hard is it?

Let me digress a bit and invite you to read one of last year’s blogs that is not only well written, but spins a grand tale of personal conquest against the odds. Best of all. it’s coated with a rye sense of humor. Linda Daly’s “Karma on the Trail” at https://thumperwalk.wordpress.com is a great read. You’ll enjoy it.

So, here I sit with aching knees and more, and only 319 miles remaining on the clock. Honestly, I’ve achieved most of my primary goals, so what’s the motivation?

Not a day goes by that I don’t remember why I’m out here. Zack Davis wrote an excellent book about mental preparedness and I took his advice.

First I prepared a list of reasons why I am hiking the AT with specific personal objectives, most of which are disclosed in this blog. Some are not.

This process ensured that I developed a deeper understanding of why I am here and what I hope to achieve. I review it daily in my head.

A second list delineates the costs and consequences if I do not complete my mission. This list also is on my mental checklist whenever I need a reminder.

Most importantly, I set my mental attitude before I ever took the first step. Short of debilitating injury or personal emergency, quitting is not an option. I dragged out my old military mindset and gave myself a mission to complete the AT within 12 consecutive months. Period. Do or die.

I’ve always loved Teddy Roosevelt’s answer to the question about why he gave the task of building the Panama Canal to the Army. His answer: “Because they can’t quit.” There you have it in a nutshell.

The daily motivation is relatively easy. You wake up and follow the white blazes.

They say never quit on a bad day. In that sense, everything depends on how a bad day is defined. The word disaster comes to mind.

I’ve had many hard days, but never a bad one. Mostly they’ve been very good. Sometimes I’ve rolled into town (Erwin, Tenn. and Damascus, Va. for example) soaked to the skin and just short of disaster.

Those towns were in exactly the right places at the optimal times. I got lucky. Then again, it also pays to be lucky sometimes. Just don’t learn to depend on luck.

Everything else we try to plan such as logistics or in the cases of weather or trail conditions, take In stride. “It is what it is.” comes out of every hikers mouth several times a day or so it seems. Being properly equipped and prepared tends to take care of that. Unfortunately experience and gear cost money that some folks don’t have.

Last, I try to maintain perspective and remember some if the great ordeals of history as I did with the Civil War force marches through the Shenandoah region. Compared to Shackleton, or Louis Zaparini, the Bataan Death March, the Russian winter campaigns suffered by the French and German soldiers, an AT hike is truly a walk in the woods.

It’s ways helpful to maintain perspective. The rest is will power.

Some shelter caretakers are mindful of hiker boredom.

Spectacular scenery and an occasional gray jay help.

Finding new friends along the trail is a pure delight.

The long down

June 24, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Ethan Pond Campsite, NH, AT NOBO mile 1,837.0, Friday June 20, 2014 — The diabolical trail gods have a cruel sense of humor.

What goes up must go down. From the summit of Lafayette the descent to Crawford Notch (1,277 ft.) is sure and steady.

Why? Who would want the climb to the 6,288 ft. summit of Mt. Washington to be less interesting? But that’s yet to come. No sense dwelling on it.

Today the look back over the past three days was spectacular. Lincoln, Lafayette and Garfield all in a single panorama.

The journey included a talus field reminiscent of several places in the Rockies. My bootsteps crunching on scree chomped up nostalgic memories of hikes long gone by, my brother Jack and other friends and me out for the kind of adventures 20-somethings enjoy. Those were good days.

We still have four miles of descent before the trail profile starts looking like a hockey stick with the long end up.

We plan to stay at Mispah Hut. If we can’t get work for stay, we’ll pay. There’s a fundraiser at Mt. Washington’s Lake of the Clouds Hut tomorrow, so my preferred destination is out of the question. Maybe we can score some left over caviar and drain the dregs of the Champaign bottles when we pass through?

Apologies to those having difficulty viewing the page. Since the app update, WordPress has had issues, so I can’t say for sure it’s browser compatibility. Unfortunately I am at WordPress’s mercy until I can get out of the woods and lay my hands on a real computer. 🙁