Twenty four hours later…

July 25, 2014July 25, 2014 / jim fetig / 3 Comments

Harrison’s Pierce Pond Camps , AT NOBO mile 2030.5, Thursday July 24, 2014 — Today reminded me that Maine has more mud than Vermont and more rocks than Pennsylvania in spite of it’s glorious splendor. Yesterday’s rain dumped a lot of water on the Maine landscape with predictable results. It did what water does.

The mud was deep and black as onyx. It would make pretty good glue I suspect. I’ve written enough about slippery rocks that the eponymously named college probably owes me something for the ads. We had it all, in spades.

None of that nuisance stuff interfered with what was a watercolor day of storybook ponds and classic Maine scenery. I even crossed a road with a congratulatory 2,000 mile sign painted on it. Must be depressing for the southbounders. Some of them look so fresh and innocent. They have no idea what they’re marching into. None of us did.

Maine is dotted as thick as a Monet painting with rustic, and I mean rudimentary, cabins that people own or rent for fishing and hunting.

Built in the early ’30s, and not much changed, Harrison’s is a classic. Franklin Roosevelt once fished here. Tim, the owner and former actuary, is a good guy who treats hikers with extra kindness.

The actual reason I pulled in here was for the giant breakfast and the HOT shower. The mud and warm temperatures this week have taken their toll. Laundry can wait until tomorrow in Caratunk where I have to go to the post office anyway.

It’s a three-mile hike in the morning to catch the canoe that ferries hikers across the Kennebec River. The ferry was initiated after a hiker drowned and several others had close calls several years ago. The danger lies in a dam upstream that releases water without warning. The icy cold temp can’t be a favorable factor either.

There’s a noisy loon in the pond.

Tim joined us for breakfast.

Lovely day

July 25, 2014July 25, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Crocker Cirque Campsite, Me, AT NOBO mile 1989.8, Monday July 21, 2014 — As the aphorism goes, no rain, no pain, no Maine. Yesterday was a trifecta. Rain and pain in Maine. Today was the opposite.

Sunshine was welcome all day. It got a bit warm during the climbs and I drank four liters of water while hiking and one more upon reaching camp.

The tendinitis contracted from the beating I took in the White Mountains and western Maine is under control. I’m delighted.

Actually being in Maine, that’s a bonus, believe me.

The trail was generally good today allowing for a 14 mile outing. The ledger recorded two river crossings, neither of which required me to take my boots off thanks to convenient stepping stones and a well placed plank on the Carrabassett.

Sorry. No pics of the crossings. My gear, including my camera, is always double bagged in case I fall in.

I’m parked in a campsite, not a shelter. The next shelter is 12.4 miles and that’s for tomorrow. Meanwhile, my tent has taken its share of wear and tear. Big Agnes (manufacturer) promised to Express Mail a new stuff sack and poles to Rangely. Only the former arrived. Let’s hope the new poles are in Caratunk.

Today’s milestone is less than 200 miles to go. Tomorrow I will break the 2,000 mile barrier before the day is done. The countdown has begun.

Tent platforms are necessary where flat ground does not exist.

Real ankle busters.

I’m starting to appreciate this kind of trail.

Sat on the stump for lunch.

There’s good news tonight!

July 23, 2014July 25, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Sorry this one is out of sequence. Have I mentioned that I don’t like the WordPress ap anymore …

Horns Pond Lean-to, ME, AT NOBO mile 2002.2, Tuesday July 22, 2014 — Gabriel Heatter was a noteable radio newscaster in his day. His signature sign on was “There’s good news tonight.” That’s what I’ve got.

More than 2,000 miles have been recorded on the ledger. Only 183 left to go. Of course there are the Bigalows where I am now and a whole lot more that must be endured before the final climb up Maine’s feature mountain.

Today’s hiking was beyond strenuous. I was camped half way up south Crocker Mountain. As luck would have it, there are two of the steep little SOBs right in a row. They’re followed by a steep descent where a paved highway leads to the village of Straton which I by-passed.

Then comes one of the most beautiful ups yet. The trail scrambles between talus rock falls and monster boulder fields. It could have been a “Lord of the Rings” movie set. Bilbo my man, me thinks we might be in mordor.

I also was about close to exhaustion when I stumbled into the lean-to. It was hot today and the water wasn’t spaced out well. After quaffing some pond water, and following a calorie laden dinner – chicken with cheese potatoes – I am both stuffed and refreshed. The knees feel great too!

It’s difficult to describe the attraction engendered by Maine’s rugged and strenuous hiking. The isolation is everything which most of us were hoping this hike would be. I mean I haven’t heard a Harley’s obnoxious exhaust from the trail in Maine yet!!! Most everywhere else, they keep campers awake at night. Not here.

Tomorrow features a couple of leg burning climbs, but it’s a relatively short day with scattered thunderstorms forecast in the afternoon. I has wanted to hike 17 miles to a shelter from which I’d get a running shot at the Kennebec ferry and my food drop in Caratunk, but considering the weather, I’ll split the days.

Someone has a sense of humor.

Tough as granite. Really?

July 19, 2014July 20, 2014 / jim fetig / 5 Comments

Rangely, ME, Saturday, July 19, 2014 — I returned to Rangely today to continue my hike early tomorrow morning. Before I left Kennebunkport, my friend Ed taught me a new trick. First a little about Ed.

We first met Hashing in Panama where he worked for the Panama Canal Commission. After the canal reverted to Panamanian control, Ed stayed on to close the books and retire on the coast of Maine.

He’s also a busy guy, meaning he doesn’t know how to sit still. With manic levels of creativity, he has landscaped his property into a showplace in a neighborhood of showplaces.

It first started with mortar-free stone walls and morphed into granite. Then there are the flower gardens. Who knows where it will end.

I thought knowing how to split granite might be a useful skill to use at home and for maintaining the trail. So I asked Ed to show me how it’s done. After all, if he can do it…

How hard could it be? Turns out that breaking rock at its most basic level isn’t difficult at all. Learning how to read the rock is a matter for another day.

As we drilled the holes and pounded the wedges, it occurred to me that cracking rocks in two might be a metaphor for thru hiking. On the trail, as in life, being flexible and willing to adjust to people, circumstances or conditions is a productive skill. Otherwise you are at risk of being too inflexible and cracking like the chunk of the rock of ages (granite pictured below), and probably faster than you think.

The trail takes and the trail gives. An old hiker maxim says that the trail will provide. For the most part it does. Nevertheless, if you’re looking for perfection, without the flexibility to adapt to what you actually get, the end of your hike may be near.

That’s a hard lesson for those used to having the authority or resources to virtually dictate their will. You see, on the trail nobody cares about your title, rank or the size of your wallet. The trail doesn’t either.

It took longer to drag out the equipment than it did to split Ed’s rock. It went that quick. In those split seconds I realized that being as tough as granite really wasn’t that much of a virtue. Sometimes being strong isn’t what you think it is.

Wow! Elapsed time = < 5 minutes!!!

High Contrast

July 18, 2014July 25, 2014 / jim fetig / Leave a comment

Poplar Ridge Lean-to, ME, AT NOBO mile 1975.6, Sunday July 20, 2014 — Today is the 45th anniversary of the Apollo moon landing. Then, as Neil Armstrong became the first human to set foot on lunar soil, I watched along with the rest of my Ft. Benning, Ga. Infantry Officer Candidate School class from the position of parade rest in our company day room wearing only our skivvies. A black and white TV flickered history in the making.

Today I resumed hiking from Rangely. I’m typing this blog on an iPhone with more computational, photographic and communications capability than the entire Apollo program. I’m still in my skivvies tho, only this time I’m reclining in my sleeping bag with 205.7 miles remaining in my thru hike.

The sojourn off and return to the trail generated about the same level of contrast. I drove my car back to Maine to make returning home easier. The traffic and noise of NYC and the fine living in Kennebunkport are as far from what I’m doing now as one can get.

I thought about that when I retrieved and purified water from a spring this afternoon. Let’s see — genuine spring water with no extra charge for a fancy label… What a deal! Likewise as I pushed over Saddleback Mountain, The Horn and Saddleback Junior on my way to camp.

This afternoon the clouds were low and furtively dashing in between the peaks as light rain snare-drummed its tune on my pack. Why would I want to be doing anything else I thought while vividly daydreaming of on-demand hot showers and the purring of my cat Sophie as she lapnaps each evening. Hummm… It may be time to git this sucker done, don’t ya think?

I’m at a shelter cared for my the same guy who built it 57 years ago. He placed a fascinating monograph in the shelter. It’s chock full of history and answers to almost every question I have had drilling away in my head. Thanks Dave for all you have done for this trail and those of us who hike it.

Thanks also to Donna, my host yesterday. She and her friend Dave took me on a nice day hike to one of the more interesting area peaks. The three of us enjoyed a scrumptious dinner after which I slept like a rock. Best of all, the view from her deck overlooking Rangely lake is to die for. Could an itinerant hiker enjoy a warmer welcome. I think not.

Last stop before trail realityville.

Good info at the trailhead.

Fresh moose tracks

Traditional Maine “baseball bat” shelter floor.

We’ve got a plan Stan

July 16, 2014July 16, 2014 / jim fetig / 13 Comments

Home, Kensington, Md. Tuesday July 15, 2014 — One of the first things a thru hiker learns is that dependence on other people, whether paid, trail angel or amazing friends, is the norm for the duration. For hyper independent type A folks like me, that’s a personal growth opportunity. I have learned humility from the incredible support I have received along the way.

The return to the trail logistics are as complicated as the extraction was. Today I was able to nail just about everything down. Once again it’s a friend to the rescue.

I decided to share the mundane details in the spirit of my readers’ interest and for those hiking in the future who may find this blog through their research.

It would be ideal to park my car in Millenocket (the town closest to the finish) and pay for a shuttle to Rangely where I will resume my hike. I discovered that scenario is a pipe dream.

To make it come true, you have to either discard common sense or be smoking something. The cost of the shuttle from Millenocket to Rangely (~220 trail miles) is $660 by ground or air. Ironic that there’s no difference? Didn’t pass the sanity check. Plan B?

Enter my friend Ed. I stored my pack at his house, so I had to go there anyway. If I could patiently wait ’til Sunday, he could ferry me to Rangely. If he’s back from vacation when I finish, he can scoop me up in Millinocket. If not he has a friend I could compensate. This sucker just might work!

I’ll start northward Monday morning after I retrieve new replacement tent poles from the Rangely post office kindly supplied by Big Agnes. Resupply stops are planned for and food boxes have been sent to Caratunk and Monson. There you have it.

After all that, one might ask if this sojourn was worth the hassle. In a phrase, you bet. Here’s a bit of the back story.

The bride is a very special young person in my life. As a Georgia Tech freshman basketball player she had the temerity to ask to intern in my office. Bold move? Betcha. My response, “You’ll have to interview for it.”

Needless to say Shaday (aka Day Day) aced the interviews. Everyone in the office wanted her on our team.

As I got to know Day Day and her family, her amazing potential became evident. In response I recruited/appointed an entire team, people with the skills and connections to help a young person develop and optimize her talents. We also added considerable rigor to her program.

The rest, as they say, is history. Today she’s working for a Fortune 50 corporation. I didn’t know her new husband, but knew of him. I knew one thing. If she picked him, he was the best. When I met him, that was a blinding flash of the obvious.

The photo is of Day Day, myself and Lee Rhyant. Lee is a friend and former Lockheed Martin colleague. Lee and his wife joined our mentoring team in position to help in unique ways. He also had the fortune to give away the bride.

BTW, I am acutely aware that my suit has out grown me. It must be due to its lack of exercise just hanging in the closet doing nothing for the past several months. 🙂

Friends!

July 10, 2014 / jim fetig / 5 Comments

Kennebunkport, ME, Thursday July 10, 2014 — What did I ever do to deserve such friends?

My hike is 220 miles and 26 shelters away from being complete and it’s time to begin reflecting upon what I’ve learned. Perhaps the most profound lesson is about friendship.

This morning the sun is rising as I take my morning coffee on my friend Ed’s oceanside deck. I’ve known him since we were introduced at a Hash in Panama about 20 years ago. We’ve been pals since bonded my our common love of running and being outdoors.

Tuesday Ed trucked for three hours up to northern Maine so that I could catch my flight today to that special wedding in Atlanta this weekend. He also drove Warren forward to a hostel in Rangely where he also was able to collect his food box at the post office. That’s selfless.

Somewhere along the line Ed learned to cut stone. The calm of the gardens he’s sculpted since then around his house is unsurpassed. It’s a special treat to share them.

I am a lucky fellow to have been touched so selflessly by so many friends including those who have shared their sincere encouragement as I’ve bumped along the trail. Then there are the friends I’ve made along the way with whom the bond of a shared journey is unique.

How did the likes of Val, Tim, Katie, Deb, Larry, and Ed come my way? Each of them shared their homes and their precious time when I needed it. I don’t know the answer, but I can never thank them enough.

The age old lesson has been confirmed. It’s the people in your life that make it worth living. In that regard I am indeed very fortunate.

Bemis and Old Blue

July 8, 2014July 8, 2014 / jim fetig / 5 Comments

Pine Ellis Hostel, Andover, 13 mile slack pack, NH Monday July 7, 2014 —
We opened up this morning with a river ford , except we cheated. We didn’t even get our feet wet. Fallen tree trunks make fine bridges.

Early in the day I stumbled into a British couple with whom I’ve been corresponding since planning for this hike began. I walked over a rock dome and who should appear but Nigel Berry and his wife Christine. They have a wonderful blog that’s well worth the read.

Once again the hiking was backward (southbound). The direction accounted for a long ride to the trailhead in the morning capped by a short skip back to the hostel at the end of the day.

Today’s scenery featured more rebar than anything else. It’s indicative that the AT in Maine’s reputation isn’t entirely deserved. General people describe trail conditions with several adjectives including unimproved, rough, eroded, rocky, rooty, challenging, and even dangerous. Let’s just say for now that it’s more complicated than that.

All-in-all, another great day is in the books.

Just in case the perspective fools you. This is near vertical.

Baldpate

July 6, 2014July 6, 2014 / jim fetig / 9 Comments

Pine Ellis Hostel, Andover, ME, 10 mile slack pack, Sunday July 6, 2014 — A certain successful 2013 thru hiker whose blog I’ve recommended suggested by email recently that the hike over the two Baldpate peaks would be “fun.”

Her wry wit and acute sense of irony and sarcasm tickled my caution meter. She could mean fun per se, or she could upgrade the sensation to a form of hard rock terrorism. Was she messing with my mind? Mind you, I’ve been an easy mark for head games lately.

Well, it turns out she meant what she said. Today’s hike was a joy.

The Baldpate peaks are a couple of granite domes separated by a gentle saddle. The slope angles are walkable wet or dry without fear. The wind, on the other hand, might up the pucker factor on occasion, but not today.

The photos tell the story. The scenery and hiking we’re amazing.

Two more slack days remain. Each is challenging. More on that later. Once they’re done I have to disappear for a few days for a wedding in Atlanta I wouldn’t miss on a bet. (I don’t plan these things.) Then it’s on to Katahdin.

Nice trail work.

Baldpate west peak – where we’re going.

Baldpate east peak – where we’ve been.

Oh Maine!

July 6, 2014July 6, 2014 / jim fetig / 2 Comments

Pine Ellis Hostel, Andover, ME, 13.5 mile slack pack, Saturday July 5, 2014 — Maine may be the final exam state but it’s raw beauty is something to behold. In that sense, it’s worth every bit of the time and effort.

When a hurricane named Arthur dumped its final load of rain on the backwoods, the result was unsurprising. It was soggy, wet, soaked, sopping, muddy, drowning, flooded, and any other descriptor of under water you can conger.

The good news, the mosquitoes and black flies were grounded by the brisk wind. Yes!!!

Still, the trail was fantastic. For the first time in weeks, the rock slab demons were on strike. Normal trail was the word of the day with an average speed in excess of 2 mph. Of course the five pound pack helped. Best of all, my knees were thankful.

Mind you that a few short months ago I would have hated these trail conditions. Since then my perspective has changed.

Today’s hike was backward, north to south, from Rangely toward Andover, ending at Rt. 17 for those who care. Tomorrow’s hike is northward from Grafton Notch over Bald Pate Mountain and the rock demons will be back. Day three should fill in the gap.

The pics show the general trail conditions, the Sabbath Pond shelter and beach. Trust me, it was fun.